Rainman

Fisher: Art with quilts, doilies, socks

2008-10-27T07:03:00.000-07:00

By Patty Fisher
Mercury News
Article Launched: 10/26/2008 01:34:57 PM PDT

Among the intricate needlepoint and colorful quilts on display in History San Jose's exhibit of local women's handicrafts, the white cotton sock seemed oddly out of place.
The sock did not look like a work of art to me. It looked like the socks we buy in packs of six pair and throw away when the heels begin to wear through.
But this sock was special. It was handmade by someone so proud of her work that she discreetly embroidered her initials in white along the cuff:
"J.W. 1869."
"She Made It!" a new exhibit at History Park in San Jose's Kelley Park, is a trip back to a time before copycat shopping malls; before repetitious "ready to wear"; when just about every dress and pair of trousers, every quilt and handkerchief, every basket and baby blanket was handcrafted by women, who were expected to keep their families not only fed but also clothed and comfortable.
Some women, no doubt, saw all the sewing, quilting, weaving and knitting as drudgery. But many delighted in the work and discovered artistic outlets and surprising opportunities to bring beauty to their otherwise drab lives.
Using common materials such as wool yarn, cloth scraps and even human hair, they turned out precious and personal works of art when simple utilitarian pieces would have sufficed.
"Women weren't always allowed to participate in 'fine arts,' so they used functional crafts as a form of creative self-expression," said Sarah Puckitt,
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curator of the exhibit.
Thus the hand-embroidered table linens that gave everyday meals a feeling of elegance. The crocheted doilies that kept the upholstery clean but also were lovely to look at.
Although most of those creations were used, reused and handed down until they wore out or were thrown away, many have survived. History San Jose has quite a collection of home crafts donated by local families, and Puckitt said she was delighted to have an opportunity to display them.
Even before I saw the exhibit, I started thinking about what the world would be like if women hadn't felt the need to make their surroundings beautiful, whether by picking flowers for the table or embroidering flowers on the tablecloth.
For centuries, great male artists were revered, their work hung on gallery and museum walls and admired. Meanwhile, women's work such as fine rugs, lace and fabrics were walked on, worn and used.
It's not that their talent wasn't admired. It just wasn't considered art.
Today, our definition of art is broader. We have "wearable art" and "body art" and "land art." If you hang a quilt on the wall, it's art.
The quilt I'd love to hang on my wall was made by the ladies of St. Paul's Methodist Church in the late 19th century. It's a "crazy quilt" made from dozens of different fabric pieces and embellished with chain stitch, daisy stitch and French knots. The more I studied it, the more little touches I saw.
The collection of quilts is a reminder that for women, creating art also was a way of socializing. The average farm wife had no time to go clubbing with her gal pals. But at quilting bees and sewing circles, she could trade gossip, recipes, wisdom and advice while getting her work done.
And then it was her duty — and her pleasure — to pass the skills of stitching, knitting and mending to her daughters.
Back in 1832, a 10-year-old girl named Mary Ann Ives stitched what was probably her first sampler. The spacing and spelling are slightly imperfect, and I can just imagine her mother or grandmother gently pointing out the mistakes. Tears probably were shed. But as the text of the sampler suggests, little Mary Ann was appealing to a higher power to judge her work:
"Jesus permit thy gracious name to stand,
"As the first efforts of an infant's hand."
Imagine her surprise if she knew that one day her first shaky sampler would find its way into a museum.
Contact Patty Fisher at pfisher@mercurynews.com or (408) 920-5852.
If you're going: "She Made It!" is on display at the Leonard & David McKay Gallery at the Pasetta House in History Park, 1650 Senter Road, San Jose. For hours and directions, visit http://www.historysanjose.org/ or call (408) 287-2290.
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Kenzo Amour...Commercial

2008-09-09T18:35:00.000-07:00

http://www.osmoz.com/News-Trends/osMoz-TV/Commercial/KENZO-AMOUR-by-Kenzo-commercial

Sex & Seduction in Sportwear ( From International Herald Tribune)

2008-09-09T18:25:00.000-07:00

Sex and seduction in sportswear
Proenza Schouler, Peter Som, Thakoon, Carolina Herrera, Isaac Mizrahi and more
By Suzy Menkes
Published: September 9, 2008
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NEW YORK: Brooke Shields, in a shapely pantsuit, walked the red carpet at Calvin Klein's 40th birthday bash this week.
It seemed like a giant stride from those ads in which the teenage actress proclaimed that "nothing comes between me and my Calvins." But it was a reminder of the subversive sexuality that the house's founder brought to American sportswear.
Symbolically, all the strong shows of New York Fashion Week are tapping into that same concept: the reinvention of sporty clothes with an undercurrent of hip sensuality. Leaving behind the pretty, girly uptown vibe that has been the New York fashion look since the start of this new millennium, the clothes are stronger, tougher and more deliberately seductive.
The design duo at Proenza Schouler moved from city smart to tough workwear and it made for a fine transition. Overalls, reworked with a bold zipper and with cutaway straps baring the back, sent a sexual charge through clothes that were otherwise big and even baggy. They were also in the spirit of the 1980s, with rounded sleeves tracing the arms like a crescent moon and a sense of oversize controlled by a cinching belt. Veronica Lake hair streaming over one eye and shoes tilted on heels that looked like metallic tools added a provocative touch.
Sexuality is not new to the designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who have toyed with brassieres and corset tops inserted into uptown looks. But this season the combination of sporty fabrics like athletic mesh, in an egg shape above billowing track pants, and the curvy shape of the rounded sleeves gave just that subversive thrust that makes sportswear seem modern.
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Today in Fashion & Style
Magical Marc Jacobs: Putting on the prairie
Sex and seduction in sportswear
Victoria Beckham's dream

The shoes told the story in Peter Som's fine show: wrapped in a bandage of Hessian straps to give the effect of feet splattered with sand. The footwear underscored a desert theme, taken at a gallop with "Lawrence of Arabia" as inspiration - hence the models with loose hair, wide cuffed shorts, brief skirts wafting in light layers or mid-calf dresses cinched with leather at the waist.
Som's skill came through in the color palette that went from sandy beige through shades of oasis spring water to sky blue and turquoise, then hotted up to the sunset pink that made a subtle suede dress.
"It's sexier than usual," said Som. But this well-thought-out show was never vulgar and expressed a sporty freedom of a modern woman.
"Seduction and fetishism," announced Thakoon Panichgul backstage to define dresses worked with the effect of trussed ribbons and rubbery nylon coats. With an echo chamber of ideas from Lanvin et al., this collection seemed like it was trying too hard. The high points of the Thakoon show came when he played with print, having dancing legs come out of the stamens of a rose, in a neat metaphor for sporty energy and sweet romance.
When Carolina Herrera shows a skinny, streamlined pantsuit in matador red, you know that the feel for sportswear is galloping through fashion. In fact, although she cited the influence of Italian painting and of Russian constructivists, this show seemed more influenced by the Spanish bullring and the designer's South American roots. Think of frills cascading down dresses that all seemed aimed at that familiar totem: the red carpet.
What worked best was the Herrera hallmark: the beautiful blouse, dramatic in black chiffon, with transparent puffy sleeves and worn with high-waist toreador pants in yellow and black print; or pristine as the designer's signature white blouse with black embroidery and a pencil skirt.
Isaac Mizrahi, showing his couture line on a big ballroom stage, knows all about sportswear - from his signature style in the 1980s and because he has been tapped to design for the iconic sportswear house Liz Claiborne.
What came out on the runway was sports couture: a mix of big, light shapes worn with skintight corsets and bicycle pants in eye-popping fluorescent colors. A shocking pink bra was worn boldly under a floaty dress and a ball gown flipped open to show Day-Glo green shorts. The show was endearing in its energy, although there were some clunky dresses heavy with paillettes and others that looked like Snow White dressing for a 1950s prom. Shiny surfaces and modern fabrics made the new Mizrahi seem intriguing.
Genuine sportswear companies are in their element this season. The Y-3 label, with the collaboration of Yohji Yamamoto, hit its target with its graphic play on the famous Adidas stripes for both sexes. While the male might have a bathrobe of a coat in horizontal stripes, a woman's calf-length dress with shifting layers of stripes gave a different effect. From smart sports shoes (with the three signature stripes) to subtle mixes of masculine and feminine (as a tunic with a bow at the back, worn with racing stripe pants), Y-3 is true to its designer's romantic modernist identity.

Diesel Black Gold is a model of how to give a denim company a sharp fashion edge. By playing with fabric, using fine ticking-striped cotton or paint-splash effects, and by experimenting with new shapes, from drop-crotch to harem pants, the clothes looked as modern as the undulating sound waves projected on the backdrop. If helmets recalled last season's Proenza Schouler show and feather vests mirrored Burberry's collection, this Diesel line still has a personal identity that is fresh and hip.
Z-Zegna is a men's line designed to incorporate the luxury and elegance of the Ermenegildo Zegna Italian brand with a more casual and sporty image. By bringing this younger, hipper menswear collection to New York, Zegna is building a wider international identity for the brand.

Wanted: Genius designer

2008-09-05T20:53:00.000-07:00

By Guy Trebay

Published: September 4, 2008

Who will be the Next Big Thing? That's the question that perennially fuels the rave of creativity, stitchery and circus nerves that is New York Fashion Week. It's the tease that attracts the thousands of designers, buyers, editors, photographers, stylists, models, bookers, trend forecasters, sharp-tongued blogosphere sibyls and the strung-out accountants who attempt to ride herd on all of the above to the Bryant Park tents twice a year. It's the dream we all dream of a sartorial Lotto win.

Even with an economy dazed and numbed, the United States remains the world's largest market for fashion, and New York is unquestionably the center of the global fashion image machine. True, consumer pocketbooks seem to be on temporary lockdown. But the assembly line keeps cranking all the same; the maw must be fed.

But who will do it? Cast a seasoned eye across a landscape ornamented with scores of shows during the next nine days (officially Fashion Week runs today through Sept. 12) and what's immediately apparent is that while fashion is healthily supplied with journeymen there is no clear visionary, no obvious genius in sight.

"The business is much too safe," Julie Gilhart, the fashion director of Barney's New York, said last week. "There's just too much money at stake." Thus, we should not expect a season in which designers go out on a limb and propel models down catwalks in get-ups concocted from seaweed or kitchen utensils. (Both have actually happened.) This is not to suggest, as Gilhart also noted, that New York is suffering from talent shortfall — far from it. Among many others, we have the team of Proenza Schouler, with their knack for making middle-of-the-road design seem indie and cool. We have cartoonish pop cultural gadflies like Isaac Mizrahi, and chaste classicists like Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein. We have elder statesman like Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren, who, far from seeming moss-covered and passé, have been more alert to shifts in the cultural marketplace than some who were zygotes when those men first hit professional stride.

We have loopy design theoreticians like threeAsFour, holding up the fort for Downtown Style. And — back from a barkeep hiatus in Majorca that followed his Big Apple flameout—we have Miguel Adrover, the man who captured the imagination of the fashion establishment with clothes made from a recycled mattress and Yankees caps.

Still, there is no world-beater. There are no names that suggest clear-cut potential both to reshape fashion and somehow with it the global culture of style. There is no one, to take the obvious example, likely to replace Yves Saint Laurent, who died in June and seemingly took with him not merely a genius for conjuring glamour from whole cloth, but also for draping his designs to suit the mood of his time.

What seems disorienting about this absence is that fashion is no longer a discipline of interest mainly to female consumers and a cult of aesthetes. Like it or not, fashion has become something larger, a viral cultural force that sometimes seems only incidentally concerned with clothes. Cocteau wasn't kidding when he said style is a simple way of saying complicated things — a point the United States Olympic Committee clearly noted (American teams may not have dominated in the medals, but in the parade of nations they killed the competition in jauntily classic Polo Ralph Lauren uniforms), as do politicos. Were the Dead Sea scrolls subjected to more exegesis than Michelle Obama's floral print sheath at the Democratic National Convention in Denver? (Thakoon, by the way.) The voices of the blogosphere say, No.

Yet, contradictory as this may seem, the notion of a Next Big Thing in fashion may itself be culturally discordant. As in film, music and other arts, consumers have wearied of big names and labels. Except on TV, they are bored with diktats, with taste legislated by self-appointed "experts" and with camphor-scented archaisms like "stars."

They have lost the desire to partake of media in hunks: an entire musical album, or a single artist's whole career.

The DIY ethos prevalent among young consumers has led to an overall relaxation of the boundaries of style. Given that a 12-year-old with a MySpace page and access to digital "mood boards" or electronic makeover applications (girltech.com) can become an instant authority on fashion, is there truly a need for the dictators of the front row, the editors who once chose the stars?

"No longer is fashion force-fed to the consumer," said Robert Burke, a former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman who is now a luxury goods consultant. "They don't have to wait for magazines and editors to tell them what they must buy and must have."

Fun as it is to indulge in the game show fantasy retailed by programs like "Project Runway," with its winners and losers and dubious jackpots, it is probably time to face the truth about the In or Out divide, which is that it is subjectively judged and decreed by a posse of Heathers.

"I really never understood the next big thing," said Kim Hastreiter, an editor of Paper magazine. "How can someone be a genius this season and next season they're not?"

She added: "This completely drives me crazy. Everyone can be raving one season about how great a designer is and then the next season they're dumped."

People do not become "un-brilliant," Hastreiter said. "Designers really suffer from this because you get lifted up and put in this place and then someone else comes along and is put in that place and it's never really about the work."

Passionate fandom, the widespread devotion that also helps invest a star with authority, seems quaint today. Every anonymous nobody with a social networking page or a "fun wall" can build a cohort, whether imaginary or virtual. Appended to the snapshots of everyday people and their sartorial innovations on blogs like Scott Schuman's The Sartorialist (thesartorialist.blogspot.com) are kite-tails of commentary from scores or even hundreds of commentators, who hold highly evolved (and occasionally creepy) views about what fashion is and should be.

In a lot of ways, the life and career of Saint Laurent are instructive and also helpful in understanding why it is futile and also probably dumb to sit around waiting for his avatar. "That world is gone," his former partner Pierre Bergé said days before Saint Laurent's death.

By that Bergé meant, as Jill D'Alessandro, an associate curator at the de Young Museum in San Francisco, recently explained, that "fashion was more about artistic and creative output" when Saint Laurent held his first runway show in 1962 than it was about celebrity name-checking and the creation of the latest "It" bag. "He was adapted to his times," D'Alessandro said. "He was someone who wanted to help with social change. The world was also changing a lot then, and he very consciously wanted to be part of that."

The extent to which he succeeded should be clear come November when the de Young presents a full-scale Saint Laurent retrospective.

The film director Jean Renoir once wrote a letter to Ingrid Bergman, motivated by what I am not quite sure, in which he cautioned the actress against falling for the hype axiomatically attached to the next big thing. "The cult of great ideas is dangerous and may destroy the real basis for great achievements, that is the daily, humble work within the framework of a profession," Renoir wrote.

And it's that quote I plan to take with me into the Fashion Week fray, with a hope that the onus of expectation placed on any single designer (even New York's favorite son, Marc Jacobs) will eventually yield to something more flexible, plural and modern, to use a hated fashion term. The next big thing may not be a single person at all but a yeastier and more broadly based network of shared information and connections.

It's an optimistic thought, and none too reasonable, given the financial stakes. But there has to be a role for fashion more interesting than producing a few hype artists whose greatest skill is slinging a dumb It bag off the licorice-whip arm of this season's hot socialite.

"Very few people have this ability to be the great designers and also generate the necessary buzz and excitement," Gilhart of Barneys said. "It's a trap." So formulated around star-creation right now, she added, that the business may actually be "closing out a lot of opportunities for people who are original and good and who actually have something to say."

More Articles in Fashion & Style » A version of this article appeared in print on September 4, 2008, on page G1 of the New York edition.

Roadster by Cartier

2008-09-05T20:52:00.000-07:00

A Day in a Life with…

Roadster by CARTIER

From name to bottle

A classy, sporty convertible, speed and the wind in your hair, plus a shiny, "state-of-the-art" vehicle... That’s what comes to mind when you hear the word Roadster. Familiar to Cartier fans, in the house’s vocabulary it already refers to a watch model, from which several of the design elements were borrowed: the “winding knob” cabochon cap, the play of polished or satin-finished chrome decoration. Another house trademark: the item’s weight – and it is a real heavyweight! Thick, sturdy glass, chrome-sheathed cap and precision mechanism, if you’re looking for a blunt object, look no further!
For that is another aspect of luxury, a certain “weightiness”; the reassuringly hushed sound of a cap that’s adjusted to within a fraction of an inch around the buse of the spray mechanism... Brutes need not apply! Handle with care if you don’t want to throw it out of alignment. Indeed, it even says so on the inside cover of the chic, matte-black-lined flannel-gray box. Nothing flashy, mind you, but watch out for those imperceptible status symbols. A series of details that, altogether, make this roadster more like one of those curvaceous cars from the 50s than a demolition derby sedan...

From bottle to trail
Pschittttttt !
We were expecting 0 to 60 in next to no time flat, but this is practically a rocket ship taking off under our nose. There are UFOs in the air. Fresh, cool, soft, sharp, effervescent… no two ways about it, Roadster put a tiger in its tank, and a wild one at that. You do notice the announced “fougere” architecture: citrus opening boosted with ozone plays bergamot’s part, chiseled patchouli for the wood, and a well-bred vanilla takes over for the coumarin note. With a duo of unexpected mints guest-starring in lavender’s role, the inventory of fougere style is complete. Yet the effect is no less intriguing. For this mint accord has a rakish charm! Something wild, like a road trip, and mysterious, like a familiar landmark whose olfactory grammar has been redefined. Neither chewing gum, nor herbal tea; neither crème de menthe nor after-dinner mint, this mint has ardent and powerful aromas, but no culinary reference points. With the aromatic freshness of a frosty, almost mineral spice, it revisits a flavor that has been exhausted with overuse, the better to offer us waves of a new, molecular-gastronomy-style scent. Renewing the fougere concept has been pulled off with style, even if you can already hear some parties pooh-poohing the achievement. It’s not the first time mint has been used in fragrance – obviously. Some people will call the smell “segmenting” or experimental, or even say the composition is improbable... But at least it takes a stand and provides a recognizable signature in a season full of déjà vu all over again.
That Cartier, the VIP jeweler-perfumer, would create and flaunt a design like this is quite a thrill. Proof positive that between today’s “masstige” market (cross between prestige and mass-market) and the rich and famous niche, there are still roads less traveled to explore... Hurray!

GUERLAIN HOMME by Guerlain

2008-09-05T20:48:00.000-07:00

GUERLAIN HOMME by Guerlain

Created: 2008
For: Men
type: Citrus - Aromatic

Resolutely fresh and energetic, Guerlain Homme draws its inspiration from a famous cocktail, the mojito. The ad campaign, signed Jean-Paul Goude shows a ‘primitive’ green-eyed man lapping up water from a source surrounded by wild animals…

Converse One Star For Your Back-to-School Wardrobe

2008-08-29T18:56:00.000-07:00

LOS ANGELES, Aug 27, 2008 / FW/ — Preppy meets casual, the Converse One Star Fall 2008 collection offers budding fashionistas contemporary denim, knit dresses, sweaters, graphic tees and outerwear for an irreverent look at a great price.

Together with a vintage, rock n’ roll-inspired accessories line, the pop culture assignation usually associated with Converse and the century old history of the brand that has influenced music, arts, sports and fashion, the Converse One Star brand continues its evolution.

For women, traditionally athletic silhouettes were re-imagined to be more feminine. Fall color palettes and collegiate-themed logos, the preppy urban style is achieved.

The One Star women’s footwear — from houndstooth skimmers and wedge oxfords in berry and taupe, to metallic Skidgrip® footwear styles and satin ballet skimmers in fuchsia and black proposes a youthful rock & roll look.

For men, rugby-striped shirting and military jackets evoke this season’s One Star style of prep school and punk rock. Using deep green, navy and red, accented with vintage gold and blue, the look is uniquely One Star and effortlessly stylish.

The fall One Star footwear collection for men includes retro skate and soccer shoes, as well as a suede hi-top-style shoe.

The Converse One Star fall collection also marks the debut of vintage-inspired, versatile accessories for men and women. Sold exclusively at Target, the newest addition to the One Star roster includes canvas totes, striped neck scarves and bowler bags for every day.

Converse One Star Collection is available at select Target stores nationwide and at www.target.com beginning August.

Essential essences

2008-08-29T18:53:00.000-07:00

White flowers… for him and her

2007’s star flower was iris. No one flower has taken this year’s crown, but jasmine and white flowers are present in many of the latest scents. Yves Rocher introduced a gentle, slightly fruity jasmine christened Tendre Jasmin and Bulgari presents Jasmin Noir, a sweeter, woodsier floral. New for women from Givenchy, Absolutely Irresistible features, not rose like Very Irresistible, but – you guessed it – jasmine. A jasmine garbed in orange blossom and fruity and woodsy notes. White flowers are also at the heart of Diesel’s new perfume, Fuel for Life UNLIMITED, presented as a ‘bouquet of white flowers (…) wrapped in licorice’ and fruity notes. It boasts three white flowers: Casablanca lily, tuberose and jasmine. Another white flower – albeit a more imaginary one – is unveiled in the packaging and the ad campaign for Kenzo’s new men’s scent, Kenzo Power. After Dior (Fahrenheit 32, Dior Homme) and Gaultier (Fleur du Mâle), Kenzo is also exploring the floral register for men with Kenzo Power. Garbed in spicy and woody notes, the whole is nevertheless quite floral for a men’s scent. Unusual on men, but why shouldn’t women wear it too?

Another trendy flower this season: classic violet. Women will find it in Love in Black (Creed) and Féerie (Van Cleef), and men can get a hint of it in Lalique White.

Gourmet fusions

Feel like a tequila sunrise or a mojito? Good timing, because fragrances in the gourmet register are in. Gaultier’s Ma Dame, a light floral, has a bright, Tequila Sunrise-style splash of grenadine syrup and tart orange. There’s a similar fusion-cocktail concept happening at Guerlain, with Guerlain Homme, a men’s scent blending lime and fresh mint, mojito-style. The overdose of mint in Roadster, Cartier’s new fragrance for men, is softened with sweet, lightly vanilla notes, somewhat reminiscent of an After Eight after-dinner mint. Looking at more men’s scents: Emporio Armani Diamonds’ energizing trail is warmed up with cocoa, and in Givenchy’s Play, the opening wood-citrus-coffee blossom blend evokes an imaginary rhubarb-wood sensation. For more gourmet experiences: an exotic plum note blends with burnt amber and white flowers in Calvin Klein’s latest, Secret Obsession. And for gourmets of the gourmand, Reminiscence is completing their Les Notes Gourmandes collection with 2 new notes, including Si Do. The bottle’s ‘violet-macaroon’ hue reveals a fragrance weaving together ambrette, carrot and woodsy-floral notes.

Women’s Woods

The trend towards woodsy scents for women that started some time ago (and was most noticeable in 2007, with Saint Laurent’s elle) isn’t over yet. Women love flowers, obviously, but woodsy notes had clearly been set aside for too long. So in the U.S., Estée Lauder has left the floral register for a major woodsy scent, Sensuous. Fashion designer Tom Ford has also decided to launch a woodsy perfume, White Patchouli, with bergamot, ambrette seed and white flowers for the white facet. Patchouli is here to stay. Christian Lacroix presents C’est La Fête Patchouli, and Esteban introduces Patchouli eau de toilette. Lancôme is also exploring a woodsy register, with their woodsy-floral, Magnifique. It weaves rose, the brand’s significant flower, with woodsy notes of vetiver and sandalwood, and the slightly smoky notes of nagarmota (a variety of papyrus from India).

One more thing: the return of citrus signatures

First niche brands went into citrus notes in a big way, and now the big names are getting in on the act, too. Dior has introduced Dior Homme Sport, distinctly dominated by citrus, and even Guerlain is temporarily leaving their ‘Guerlinade’ register with a citrus scent. Though spicier and muskier, Lalique White is a citrus scent too.

Fragrance Collection 08 - 09

2008-08-29T18:46:00.000-07:00

Fragrance Collection 08 - 09

Gold and diamonds, trails of white flowers, black & white, wood for women, grenadine and mojito… osMoz decrypts this falls fragrant trends for you. A special report cahier presented like a trend book.
By Nicolas Olczyk

… What’s new?

Like 2007, fall 2008 is going to be full of new launches. Certain fragrances came out this summer so that they’re already in the starting blocks as summer winds down and people come back from the beach. Like last year, there are lots of new hopefuls, but this year, it looks like men have attracted the lion’s share of brands’ attention. Indeed, new men’s scents can be found not only from Prada, Cartier, Dior and Paco Rabanne, but also Armani, Givenchy, Guerlain ou Kenzo.

When it comes to faces, they’re rolling out the red carpet. Justin Timberlake is representing the new Givenchy, Calvin Klein recruited the curvaceous Eva Mendes, Jude Law signed on with Dior, Lancôme called upon actress Anne Hathaway. And with diva Beyoncé representing the women’s version, Giorgio Armani chose young actor Josh Hartnett for the men’s version of Emporio Armani Diamonds…

As for models, we can’t help noticing that British model Agyness Deyn is fragrance’s new It girl. This spring Burberry chose to personify The Beat, and now she is the muse of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s latest perfume, Ma Dame this fall. In both cases, she incarnates a hip young woman with an off-beat look.

Fans of beautiful bottles will be thrilled. Rare and expensive, the new Acqua di Parma fragrance is an old-school, fine-fragrance chypre presented in a silk-lined box. Another charmer, the bottle for Van Cleef & Arpels’s Féerie is like a sapphire with Tinkerbell perched on top. The stunningly modern bottle of Cartier’s new men’s scent, Roadster, evokes the watch of the same name. As for Lalique, the brand is launching a fragrance extract for men in a crystal bottle for their new fragrance, Lalique White.

MAN by Calvin Klein

2008-08-29T18:37:00.000-07:00

MAN by Calvin Klein

Created: 2007
For: Men
type: Woody - Spicy

MAN perfectly expresses Calvin Klein’s cutting edge minimalism and sexy style. MAN is the essence of the modern man in a signature fragrance. A crisp spicy woody scent, defined by its distinctly masculine aura and artisanal craftsmanship.

Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein

2008-08-28T20:42:00.000-07:00

Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein

Created: 2008
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral

Sensuality, fantasies and… secret obsessions

‘Between love and madness lies… obsession’: that was the starting point for Secret Obsession. Over 20 years ago, the Obsession ad made a huge stir. Secret Obsession’s is also attracting a lot of attention. It features the actress Eva Mendes in a provocatively sensual, almost sexual attitude. More floral than the original Obsession, Secret Obsession has conserved the original’s oriental character and the promise of an aphrodisiac love-potion.

The American designer continues his exploration of freshness with the launch of 2 new essences in his Splash collection. Planned for an autumn release

2008-08-28T20:41:00.000-07:00

The American designer continues his exploration of freshness with the launch of 2 new essences in his Splash collection. Planned for an autumn release, they focus on fig and gardenia, after this spring’s grapefruit, pear and basil scents. Described as an aquatic floral, Gardenia was designed by Jean-Claude Delville. Fig is a green, citrussy and spicy essence by Yann Vasnier. Eaux de toilette 10 oz., recommended retail price: €61.

Paris in Motion

2008-08-23T20:32:00.001-07:00

Alexis Mabille: In his program notes Alexis Mabille claimed to be dressing a gaggle of fun-loving, unconventional characters who populate an artsy alternative school. He does in fact offer an alternative take on haute couture, one that banishes stuffiness and staid propriety in favor of an attitude that's fresh, young and sportif. It's a vision in which couture and ready-to-wear comingle proudly, blissfully mindless of any old-fashioned fashion caste system. Yet as for that unconventional claim, that's where Mabille really makes hay or HEY. In truth, he doesn't reject convention; he embraces it, starting with traditional notions of French chic. His runway ran rampant with it. He just expresses it with moments of willful irreverence. Take a singular idea, the drop-waist shirtdress. He rendered it cut lean and dark, with pleated schoolgirl propriety, in an artsy black sack rendition, and as an out-there clownish pink polo. He tinkered as well with tuxedo and military motifs, while showing fabulous pants both slouchy and lean, and what may be the only young-looking caftan this side of a Talitha Getty photo. In short, Mabille seems to be just what couture needs: a young, informed talent who doesn't let his deep respect for the milieu get in the way of a good look.Anne Valérie Hash: With an offering of 16 outfits, Anne Valérie Hash boiled down her haute vision to a concise essence that the designer said was inspired by the "vegetal realm." It translated into some very pretty fare, especially a dress with a petal-like sleeve, and delicate sculptural pleating effects on crepe dresses that subtly evoked the folds on a flower. Equally fetching was a dress of translucent lace and organza panels. Hash's talent lies in making clothes with sensual flair. A long black dress with a plunging neckline was a case in point — it looked sexy without being vulgar. Hash added a bit of drama to the mix with oversize jewelry from Naomi Filmer. But in the couture world of big effects and theatrical gestures, Hash's arty approach, though quite enchanting, felt a bit timid.Stéphane Rolland: Now in his third solo season, Stéphane Rolland has established a look based on spangles and flounces tempered with "Dynasty"-style glamour. This couture outing, he explored volume, massed sequins on the shoulders of a dress or a jacket and even a Goth moment done up with more sequins. It was more flash than dash.

Giorgio Armani's New York Tour

2008-08-23T20:26:00.000-07:00

THE GIORGIO ARMANI SHOW just kept rolling Tuesday.

Looking no worse for wear after the Costume Institute gala at the Met, the designer did a question-and-answer session at the Fashion Institute of Technology early in the day, then headed uptown to the Hearst Tower, where the Couture Council of The Museum at FIT gave him the first Couture Council Award for Global Fashion Leadership. When he and Glenn Close ascended the escalator, dozens of black-clad men and women broke into applause. A Swarovski-sponsored luncheon hosted by Harper's Bazaar and its editor in chief, Glenda Bailey, attracted the likes of Sarah Larson, Eugenia Silva and Ziyi Zhang.

"I actually made the worst-dressed list before I met Mr. Armani," Close admitted.

Against the backdrop of the skyline, Armani couldn't help but show his appreciation for Manhattan. "It is a very beautiful city, and I found it even more beautiful this time," he said.

As he prepared for his return to Milan later that afternoon after his three-day stopover in New York and a vacation in Antigua, he was left with one question: "I would like to ask Nadja Swarovski how I can get through security with this?" Armani joked, referring to the award.

At FIT, students greeted him dressed in black T-shirts with "I Met Giorgio Armani" on the front and "at FIT" on the back.

The designer told the group, "You must not take advantage of people who are willing to live off fashion. Keep in mind that the goal of your product is the same goal I have had for so many years — to improve people's image through fashion. You must remember that fashion serves a purpose: to make people feel more attractive when they get up in the morning, get dressed and look at themselves in the mirror."

Before Armani left, the students gave him a T-shirt that read, "I Met the Students at FIT."

But Armani's trip to New York was as much business as pleasure. After touring the site of his upcoming Fifth Avenue flagship Sunday, on Monday he drew a crowd of 500 to Saks Fifth Avenue for a signing of Roger Hutchings' book, "Armani Backstage." "We were originally scheduled to have Armani back on 9/11, but we haven't had him since, so to have him in our flagship store is a very special event," said Stephen I. Sadove, Saks' chairman and chief executive officer. The Armani products are in 38 Saks doors.

Since Friday, retail sales for the L'Oréal-owned brand totaled more than $100,000, according to industry sources. Armani unveiled a prototype Armani beauty counter, and L'Oréal plans to roll out the new design to all stores over the next few years. The redesign is expected to increase sales up to 25 percent, said Stephane de la Faverie, general manager of Giorgio Armani Beauty.

"This is a significant step up in Giorgio Armani's beauty business development," said Laurent Attal, president and ceo of L'Oréal USA. "The business has a lot of potential in the U.S."

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

2008-08-22T20:49:00.000-07:00

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

Created: 2008
For: Men
type: Oriental - Woody

‘From the phoenix – that mythical bird (…) rising from its ashes – is born a timeless, land-less scent, from neither here nor there,’ Serge Lutens tells us. This ‘gray oriental’ for him or her is like ‘the memory of the wind suggesting a shape,’ ‘a future silhouette.’ This garb of black cloth (serge is a fabric) is also a play on the designer’s first name.

Jean Paul Knott: Synergy Between Fashion & Art

2008-08-20T18:52:00.000-07:00

PARIS, Aug 19, 2008 / FW/ — Known for his sensitiveness to quality, originality and exclusivity, Jean Paul Knott has found synergy between fashion and art.

Honing his skills under the tutelage of Yves Saint Laurent for 12 years, Jean Paul Knott launched his own label ‘JEANPAULKNOTT’ in 2000 in Brussels. Though his life in fashion had taken him to Milan and Paris, there was never a time when Jean-Paul put it on the shelf. He never stopped developing it.

In 2001, he was named Artistic Director for Krizia; in 2002 he designed costumes for Maurice Bejard Ballet, and in 2003 he started working as Creative Director for Louis Feraud Paris.

The next two years, 2004 and 2005, Jean-Paul concentrated in his own label, developing an underwear line and an accessories line under JEANPAULKNOTT. He was also commissioned to design rooms at the Royal Windsor Hotel in Brussels.

To Jean-Paul, fashion is not just about clothes. It is also art. So, in 2006, he launched his first concept gallery in Brussels. As expected it is dedicated to clothes, fashion and art.

[SARA CONDE]

JEANPAULKNOTT

Head Office
Block Knott Gallery
Kanal 20
bd Barthelemy 20
1000 Brussels
BELGIUM
Tel: +32 (0) 2 514 18 35
Fax: +32 (0) 2 511 24 35
Website: www.jeanpaulknott.com

Tags:Jean Paul Knott

BYOB Takes A New Meaning

2008-08-20T18:50:00.001-07:00

LOS ANGELES, Aug 19, 2008 / FW/ — Pretty soon, we won’t be hearing that familiar question, ‘paper or plastic?’ Whether its due to social responsibility or not, fashionistas will choose BYOB – Bring Your Own Bag – to the grocery store with all good looking satchels and totes available in the market today.

Paraphrasing a very popular 1960s slogan, Martha Lee adopted the mantra ‘MAKE LOVE NOT TRASH’ putting them on shopping bags that can double as messenger bags at times.

Very eco-conscious herself, Martha Lee made sure that each bag is conscientiously crafted with all natural, non-toxic materials. Part of fulfilling its social responsibility, Make Love Not Trash will work with a new charity each year in an effort to raise awareness for their cause.

This year, the company has chosen to support THE LEEZA GIBBONS MEMORY FOUNDATION, a charity organization fully dedicated to Alzheimer’s disease.

www.makelovenottrash.com

KENZO POWER

2008-08-20T18:42:00.000-07:00

KENZO POWER by Kenzo

Created: 2008
For: Men
type: Woody - Floral musk

A streamlined, graphically designed flower for men

A men’s fragrance with a streamlined aesthetic, Kenzo Power echoes Kenzo Flower, the brand’s best-selling fragrance for women. Indeed, the two scents share a flower motif on the bottle. But here, the flower is more subtle and discreet, like a watermark. This reflects the fragrance, which is also floral… but with an ‘abstract florality’. The shape of the bottle is reminiscent of a Japanese sake bottle.

PLAY by Givenchy

2008-08-20T18:40:00.000-07:00

PLAY by Givenchy

Created: 2008
For: Men
type: Woody - Spicy

Do you want to play...

Activating Play means getting away from the ordinary, discovering new visual, tactile and fragrant sensations. It means getting the buzz, sharing your experiences and emotions everywhere and all the time in a multimedia world of high-tech nomads. Play, a timelessly modern scent for men, plays off of this image with its graphic MP3-player bottle. Seduction, freedom, hyper-sensorialism, hyper-connectivity, Play is incarnated by singer / producer / actor / sex symbol Justin Timberlake, the face of the fragrance.

JLO gets into men

2008-08-19T18:34:00.000-07:00

JLO gets into men

Date: 08.20.2008

Six months after giving birth to twins, Jennifer Lopez is back to work. After her perfumes for women only, Jennifer Lopez is now also thinking of men. In September, she’ll be launching her first men’s scent, christened deseo for men, a woody aromatic warmed up with amber. It will follow up on the success of deseo, an exotic woodsy-floral whose name means ‘desire’. Both fragrances will be available in several countries, including the USA, of course. For more info: www.jenniferlopezbeauty.com

Toyko hones its vintage clothing market

2008-08-19T18:05:00.000-07:00

TOKYO: The story about vintage clothes in Tokyo goes like this: A Hollywood actress, after a successful crash diet, sold her size 6 wardrobe to a thrift shop in Santa Monica. Three months later she came to Tokyo to promote her latest movie and one afternoon wandered into one of the city's landmark vintage clothing shops, called Santa Monica. What should she find there but her own shorts and several party dresses, unobtrusively displayed under a sign that read: "Santa Monica Style."

The story is credible for the simple reason that Tokyo has now reached a point where it's safe to call it Planet Vintage. Among the 400-plus shops scattered over the city, myths like this abound.

The good news is that it's not all rumor and folklore - according to a fashion stylist, Keiko Okura, "the quality of Tokyo vintage products are unmatched."

Okura, who habitually combs the racks of thrift shops to collect extra items for fashion shoots, said, "Nowadays, even in Paris and London it's no rare thing to walk into a vintage clothing store and come out disappointed. But in Tokyo, where the vintage market is fiercely competitive and the customers knowledgeable, it's always a challenge to go in there and see what's going on, check out what other people are wearing."

Vintage clothing first took hold in Tokyo during the postwar years - young men, eager to emulate the ways of American GIs striding through the city wearing their confidence like medals, began buying U.S. military clothing on the black market.

After the Tokyo Olympics in 1964, the demand for American casual soared - and in 1966 a store called Chicago opened its doors to a Levis-hungry public, the first bona fide vintage shop Tokyo had ever seen and now the most trusted name in the business. According to a co-director, Tsutomu Iizuka, "customers coming in were all asking for jeans and flannel shirts. Back then, no one had the means or distribution network to bring these in, so we shifted our focus from imported merchandise to used and vintage."

Chicago now has five outlets in Japan and operates a warehouse in St. Louis, Missouri. At its main store in Harajuku, Tokyo, old clothes are displayed like gallery pieces: an embroidered circular skirt from Guatemala, 1960s surfer shirts from Maui, natty suspender belts from Japan, circa 1957.

Some vintage enthusiasts say it's not enough anymore merely to hunt and purchase. Professional buyers like Shinichi Kotani, who travels Europe and South America for five vintage shops, said, "The problem has always been with size. The fact is, clothes made overseas are just too large for the Japanese body."

This is where the "remake" comes in.

The successful pioneer company in this field is called Taos, which collaborates with a vintage wholesale retailer. Taos remakes and refashions old clothes in a way that makes them undistinguishable from new. Shirts are taken apart and sewn together again, re-emerging with a tighter, more fashionable silhouette. A pair of woolen pants may turn into a vest, a chef's shirt into a sleeveless summer blouse. A linen bed sheet becomes a button-down shirt. Almost all the work is done by hand. The end-product bears the Taos tag and is sold for a higher price than what people expect to pay for vintage clothing, but as Kotani points out, it would be "unfair and inaccurate to call Taos products vintage or recycled products. What they're creating is something completely new."

The vintage remake trend is also changing the designer brand world. The designer Michiko Suzuki, head of "Y's Red Label" brand for Yohji Yamamoto, has come out with a collection based on remaking deadstock, or never worn, bomber jackets. By taking the jacket seams apart, dissecting its parts and then reassembling them into elegant dresses and skirts, Suzuki is pushing the envelope on design and recycling. He's also caused a sensation on the runway.

"I think we'll be seeing a lot more of this trend," said Takako Yokomizo, a fashion industry analyst. "Remaking things and breathing new life into what had been unusable or uninspiring is alternative consumerism," which "matches the times."

Emmy Rossum has PiNKiTUDE

2008-08-14T19:06:00.001-07:00

LOS ANGELES, Aug 13, 2008 / FW/ — The Pink Panther is back with his new girl, Emmy Rossum of the ‘Phantom of the Opera’ fame. MGM, owner of the Pink Panther franchise, through its Consumer Products division is launching ‘PiNKiTUDE’, a new initiative in collaboration with Susan G. Komen for the Cure®
With Emmy Rossum as the official spokesperson, MGM through its PiNKiTUDE campaign will share life saving breast healt messages with young women everywhere. As part of the campaign, a minimum of 5% of the sales of the modern fashion line targeting teen and young adult women will be donated to Susan G. Komen for the Cure(R), the global leader in the breast cancer movement.
“As a young woman whose family has personally been affected by breast cancer, I am grateful for the opportunity to help raise awareness of this disease by sharing my ‘PiNKiTUDE’ with young women everywhere,” said Emmy Rossum. “I hope to inspire women like myself to practice breast self-awareness and to encourage them to live a healthy lifestyle.”
As part of the initiative, PiNKiTUDE will kick off with a series of events, starting with an invitation-only reception hosted by Ms. Rossum and featuring celebrity deejays Spinderella (of Salt ‘n’ Pepa) and Sean Patrick this month.
Also on tap, is launch of the first PiNKiTUDE “Pop Up Store” which will open on Saturday, August 16th at 1p.m. The public is invited to this event, which will be held at Xin Boutique, 8064 Melrose Ave. in Los Angeles.
Leveraging the strength of MGM’s media assets and corporate relationships to reach consumers on-air, online, at retail, and through their favorite media, PiNKiTUDE is devised to educate young women and teens on the importance of breast self-awareness, early detection and treatment of breast cancer.
The PiNKiTUDE initiative starts now and will culminate in October, which is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

Lauren Conrad continues her fashion career at Style Week Orange County

2008-08-14T18:44:00.000-07:00

LOS ANGELES, Aug 14, 2008/ FW/ — To the Irvine Spectrum Center, Lauren Conrad is a hometown girl who made it big. Born in Laguna Beach, California, Lauren Conrad, a.k.a. “L.C.” used to shop at the Irvine mall during her growing up years. On Sep 8, L.C. triumphantly returns home to present her Fall 2008 collection during the first ever Style Week Orange County.

Slated from Sep 8 –13 at the Irvine Spectrum Center, Style Week Orange County will feature six runway shows and dozens of in-store fashion events, designer appearances and a House of Style that visitors and fashionistas can tour.

Lauren Conrad jumpstarts the week with her Fall 2008 catwalk presentation, followed by H&M, Nordstrom and the iconic OC surf brands, Hurley and Roxy.

“This is a wonderful homecoming for me, and I look forward to seeing old friends - and making new ones,” said Lauren Conrad. “Because it was so close to my home, I grew up shopping at Irvine Spectrum Center and still visit the center when I’m in Orange County. I’m excited to return to my roots and participate in the first-ever Style Week Orange County.”

Located in the heart of Orange County, Irvine Spectrum Center is one of Southern California’s most popular shopping and fashion destinations. The outdoor center is home to the nation’s first pairing of Nordstrom and Target.

Die-hard Lauren Conrad fans already knows that their favorite celebrity’s collection was first unveiled last March at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios. Receiving mixed reviews from fashion editors, Conrad is still hopeful with her fashion dreams.

For more information about Style Week Orange County, please log on:n www.StyleWeekOC.com

Sel Marin by Heeley

2008-08-14T18:25:00.000-07:00

Sel Marin by Heeley

Created: 2008
For: Men
type: Woody - Aromatic

A fresh lemon note opens the scent. The heart blends seaweed and sea salt notes. The woody earthy base mixes cedar, vetiver and birch. Perfume company : APF.

Rei Kawakubo’s Olympic Gold

2008-08-13T20:30:00.000-07:00

NEW YORK, Aug 12, 2008 / FW/ — Every time Michael Phelps steps on the podium in Beijing to receive his gold medal, Rei Kawakubo is there with him. The founder of Comme des Garçons designed the red, white and blue swimsuits for Team USA.

Sponsored by Speedo, Team USA’s uniform is based on the company’s LZR RACER suit, its original gray and black silhouette designed by the legendary Comme des Garcons. For the Beijing Olympics, Rei Kawakubo incorporated the patriotic stars and stripes of the U.S. flag and joined it with the distinctive metallic calligraphy that already appears in the suit. The calligraphy, which was painted by celebrated artist Inoue Yu-ichi, means ‘kokoro’ represent the heart, spirit and mind.

: Speedo LZR Racer Team USA Uniform

: Speedo LZR Racer Team USA Uniform

With 33 of the 36 swimming medals won by an athlete wearing Speedo’s LZR RACER so far, the suit is fast becoming a symbol of synergy between pure design (fashion), technology (NASA) and commerce (Speedo).

An iconic brand for swimsuits, Speedo, which celebrates its 80th anniversary this year, harnessed the expertise of NASA and a number of international research institutes to create the LZR Pulse, the material used for the LZR Racer.

Using the LZR Pulse™, an ultra lightweight, low drag, water repellent and fast drying fabric unique to Speedo, the LZR Racer suit is the world’s first fully bonded competition swimsuit. With Rei Kawakubo’s distinctive silhouette, American athletes are wearing one of the most sought after designers in fashion.

Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

2008-08-13T20:18:00.000-07:00

Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

Created: 2008
For: Women
type: Floral - Woody Musk

The perfume opens with a delicate note of gardenia petals, refreshed with green sap. Then sambac jasmine makes its appearance, paired with velvety accords of satin almond. Precious woods and tonka bean introduce the scent’s final notes. Designed by: Carlos Benaïm and Sophie Labbe, IFF.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Takes Center Stage on Sep 5 – 12

2008-08-11T17:16:00.000-07:00

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Takes Center Stage on Sep 5 – 12
NEW YORK, Aug 11, 2008 / FW/ — August might be the Beijing Olympics but September belongs to fashion. New York kicks off the Spring 2009 womenswear international fashion season on Sep 5, a season that would last until Oct 5, happen in four cities and span two continents.

Surprises on Paris Fashion Week Spring 2009 Catwalk Schedule

2008-08-11T17:05:00.000-07:00

PARIS, Aug 10, 2008 / FW/ — With at least 10 catwalk shows daily on the official calendar alone, Paris Fashion Week, also known as Paris Prêt-a-Porter is a tightly-packed 9-day affair based on the tentative runway show schedule released by the Chambre Syndicale.
New, yet familiar names on the first day are Kris Van Assche designing under his own name is presenting his eponymous womenswear label, Peachoo Krejeberg who usually opt for a presentation has chosen the catwalk this season and Gareth Pugh, who usually shows in London but will now show in Paris because of his ANDAM win.
Below is the schedule as released by the Chambre Syndicale. This is tentative and still subject to change.
Saturday, September 27, 20081100 IMPASSE DE LA DÉFENSE Gare de Lyon1200 MARIE BISHARA To be confirmed1300 SIRIVANNAVARI NARIRATANA Hôtel Intercontinental Paris Le Grand1400 ESTRELLA ARCHS To be confirmed1500 PEACHOO KREJBERG To be confirmed1600 KRIS VAN ASSCHE 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple - Paris 11e1700 GARETH PUGH To be confirmed1800 DÉVASTÉE Showcase19002000 FATIMA LOPES To be confirmed
Sunday, September 28, 20081000 DICE KAYEK To be confirmed1100 LIE SANG BONG Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel1200 ANNE VALÉRIE HASH Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1300 CHER MICHEL KLEIN Hôtel Intercontinental Paris Le Grand1400 RAJESH PRATAP SINGH Galerie Nikki 9 place des Vosges - Paris 4e1500 BALMAIN To be confirmed1600 BRUNO PIETERS Maison des Métallos1700 MANISH ARORA To be confirmed1800 RICK OWENS Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1900 NINA RICCI Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e2000 AF VANDEVORST Parking Turenne2100 BLESS To be confirmed
Monday, September 29, 20081000 ATSURO TAYAMA Musée Galliera1100 CACHAREL Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre1200 GASPARD YURKIEVICH Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot*1300 VÉRONIQUE LEROY Le Carrousel du Louvre - en attente*1430 CHRISTIAN DIOR Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries – Paris 1er1530 ISABEL MARANT Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1630 SHARON WAUCHOB Cité de l’Architecture1730 UNDERCOVER See invitation1830 MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Le 104 - 11 bis rue Curial - Paris 19e1930 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts2030 YOHJI YAMAMOTO Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e
Tuesday, September 30, 20080930 BALENCIAGA See invitation1030 JUNYA WATANABE See invitation1130 TSUMORI CHISATO Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1230 MARITHÉ & FRANCOIS GIRBAUD Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre1330 ISSEY MIYAKE Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle DelormeVIKTOR & ROLF To be confirmedLUTZ To be confirmed1630 ANN DEMEULEMEESTER 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e1730 COMME DES GARCONS See invitation1900 JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 325 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e2000 VÉRONIQUE BRANQUINHO Parking Turenne - Paris 3e2100 LOEWE Les Folies Bergères - 32 rue Richet - Paris 9e
Wednesday, October 1, 20081000 KARL LAGERFELD Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1100 ANDREW GN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel*1200 AKRIS Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme*1300 EMANUEL UNGARO Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre*1400 COSTUME NATIONAL Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot*1500 DRIES VAN NOTEN To be confirmed1600 CHRISTIAN LACROIX Espace Ephémère Tuileries1700 BERNHARD WILLHELM To be confirmed1830 GIVENCHY Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e1930 HUSSEIN CHALAYAN To be confirmed2100 SONIA RYKIEL See invitation
Thursday, October 2, 20081000 STELLA MCCARTNEY Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e1100 LÉONARD Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme*1200 BARBARA BUI Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre*1300 GUY LAROCHE Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot*1400 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1500 ZUCCA Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1600 CELINE Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries – Paris 1er1700 HAIDER ACKERMANN 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e1830 SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI To be confirmed2000 YVES SAINT LAURENT Grand Palais - avenue Winston Churchill - Paris 8e
Friday, October 3, 20080930 REQUIEM To be confirmed1030 CHANEL Grand Palais - avenue du Général Eisenhower - Paris 8e1130 AGNÈS B. To be confirmed1230 JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC Le Carrousel du Louvre1330 ALENA AKHMADULLINA Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1430 VALENTINO Espace Ephémère Tuileries – Jardin des Tuileries – Paris 1er1530 JUNKO SHIMADA École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1630 RUE DU MAIL (by Martine Sitbon) 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e1730 JOSE CASTRO To be confirmed1830 VANESSA BRUNO Résidence de Serbie - Paris 16e2000 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Le 104 - 11 bis rue Curial - Paris 19e
Saturday, October 4, 20080930 TALBOT RUNHOF To be confirmed1030 KENZO Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e1130 ELIE SAAB Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme1230 WUNDERKIND Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1330 PAUL & JOE Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre1430 COMMUUN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel1530 CHLOÉ Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries - Paris 1er1630 MARTIN GRANT École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1730 HERMÈS Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1830 LIMI FEU Musée de l’Homme - 17 place du Trocadéro - Paris 16e2000 JOHN GALLIANO To be confirmed
Sunday, October 5, 20081030 MOON YOUNG HEE To be confirmed1130 SHIANTZY-CHEN École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1230 CHAPURIN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme/Soufflot1330 COLLETTE DINNIGAN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel1430 LOUIS VUITTON To be confirmed1600 DRESS 33 To be confirmed1700 LANVIN Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1800 JEFEN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel/Soufflot1900 MIU MIU See invitation

Sportive Shoes: No Longer Just a Fashion Statement

2008-08-11T17:01:00.000-07:00

LOS ANGELES, Aug 8, 2008 / FW/ — Reebok’s got game while Crocs can walk on water with their latest offerings. Gone are the days when footwear that kids and adults wear for play are called ‘runners’ or ‘tennis’ or just plain ole ‘rubber shoes.’

And they’re no longer just fashion statements either. As sportive shoes evolved, they have become part of our pop culture. In fact, the latest edition from Reebok, the company’s MONOPOLY footwear collection is based on the famous board game.
“MONOPOLY has global recognition as one of the most iconic board games of all time, and Reebok is excited to be able to translate this fun into footwear,” said Christian Stegmaier, Reebok’s Head of Lifestyle Product Marketing.
The first models to launch in the collection pay tribute to the board itself. Launching this August is the Reverse Jam designs, which will be available for a suggested retail price range of $40 for toddler sizes and $85 for men’s sizes, while the women’s Courtee designs will be available a suggested retail price of $75-80.
A favorite among outdoor enthusiasts, Crocs is launching its latest line of amphibious shoes. Made with Croslite™, a patented material that traction, durability and quick drying properties demanded by water enthusiasts, the new line echoes Crocs’ iconic look engineered for high performance.
“This collection is about Crocs getting back to its roots, offering a casual performance line of shoes designed for recreation in and around the water,” said Adam Baker, Vice President of Merchandising for Crocs, Inc. “With the introduction of new products such as the Ace Boating and Wraith, Crocs continues to be the leader in molded footwear design and technology.”
Please visit www.crocs.com for additional information.

Where the fashionistas go for a quick fix (From Herlad Tribune)

2008-08-08T18:04:00.000-07:00

By Ruth La Ferla
Published: August 7, 2008

After days of rafting, hooking worms for bait and shaking sand out of her skirts during a family trip to Oregon, Karen Snyder took a break. Lounging near her hotel alongside a riverbank, she flipped open her laptop and waved off the kids. "Mommy is going to take 15 minutes to look at what's going on in the world of Louis Vuitton," she told them.
Snyder, who owns an art gallery in San Francisco, may not be privy to the inner workings of the fashion world, but she is possessed with the fashion addict's need to know. She indulges that craving with a host of online fashion magazines, Web sites that cater to readers who, like Snyder, never seem to get their fill of advance intelligence on trends, shopping or designer dish.
Conceived to mimic mainstream glossies, titles like Hintmag.com, Fashion156.com and Glossmag.ca draw international readerships in the hundreds of thousands. But unlike their newsstand competitors, these publications exist exclusively online, updating weekly or even daily, and offering a sense of community that conventional monthlies cannot replicate. What they lack in tactile attraction, they make up for with a multimedia experience encompassing still photography, music, videos, blogs and message boards teeming with opinionated commentary. And if they are not about to slice into the profits of an Elle or a Vogue any time soon, the stars of the genre are luring advertisers, too.
In the current issue of Unvogue.com, a Webzine with a multiethnic following, readers can pore over pictures of athletic hipsters, natty on the tennis court in shorts and stiff-pressed blazers; they can read about novel ways to wear a vest; or "page" with a click to coverage of the antics of the tattooed late-night set.
Well-heeled fans of Luxuryculture.com, based in Paris, will encounter a multipage feature about Aurelie Bidermann, a jewelry designer whose silver-dipped lace collars and cuffs are sold at upscale stores. Fashion is part of a rarefied lineup that includes articles on the emergent art scene in Qatar and Abu Dhabi and a lavish pictorial on family safaris in Africa.
Multimedia

GraphicFashion156.com» View

GraphicHintmag.com» View

GraphicIconique.com» View

"People still like flipping a page and experiencing great photographs on paper," said Imran Amed, the publisher of The Business of Fashion, a Web news site. But a Webzine, he said, "can be much more dynamic, change its content faster, create dialogue with a bunch of people passionate about the same topic, and push the envelope in getting them to interact."
That speed of access and a clubby feeling give Webzines an edge with readers whose need to track down the latest cult jean or downtown boîte borders on compulsion. "These people are the influentials, and they have moved to the Internet," said Samir Arora, the chief executive of Glam Media, which places advertising on glam.com, its aggregate of fashion and lifestyle sites. "Their tastes are redefining the future of fashion on the Web."
The challenge for a Web magazine is to find ways of reaching them. Most online publishers are self-styled cyberfrontiersmen, struggling to differentiate their sites from the wilderness of chatty blogs, columns and newsletters, few of which have a distinct identity.
The fashion Webscape is "a very blurry world right now," said Joe Mandese, the editor of MediaPost.com, an online business publication. "Everything is kind of a mash-up." Sites and blogs, he said, are trying to incorporate the kinds of photography and video that have long been the province of print or TV. To stand out, a Webzine needs content that is memorable while sticking with a format that readers will find familiar.
"We wanted people to realize this is just like a fashion magazine," said Lee Carter, the founder and editor of Hintmag.com.
Accordingly, Hint, which has, since its debut a decade ago, transformed itself from a gossip-laden Web site into a virtual glossy, is built on content that mirrors that of Nylon or W. Highlights in the current issue include a nine-page fashion feature that shows a Siouxsie Sioux imposter vamping moodily in a clothing and accessories by Martin Grant, Viktor & Rolf and others.
In a magazine-length interview, the graphic designer and branding guru Fabien Baron filled readers in on the "unspoken seduction that goes on in meeting Madonna for the first time." A lightly macabre animated feature titled "Drawing Blood" showcases designs by Balenciaga and Comme des Garçons, set to the music of Munk and Annie.
Hint and other Webzines take their merchandising cues from print magazines, identifying the wares they feature with on-screen brand and store credits or links. A few have made shopping their primary focus. Net-a-Porter Notes (net-a-porter.com), a weekly catalogue dressed up as a magazine, a kind of upscale Lucky, posts trend stories, including one in its July 30 issue that talks up new colors for fall. Readers can buy the berry-tone Phillip Lim dress on its pages by clicking directly on it.

The site Iconique.com shows off the work of new illustrators, stylists, photographers and a handful of fledgling designers. So does the London-based Fashion156.com, plucking new faces from design school obscurity. "The whole thrust of our magazine is to provide a platform for emerging talent," said Guy Hipwell, the editor and founder.

In contrast to traditional magazines, which decide their content months before going to press, a Webzine can update almost instantly, Hipwell pointed out. "I can literally go to a graduate design show and get the work up on screen the next day."

His 2-year-old site, published every 12 days and reaching an audience of about 250,000, was created for an estimated $40,000. Hipwell would not disclose his cost per issue, but acknowledged that he publishes on a shoestring, offering contributors nominal fees or prominent credits and Web links in exchange for work. He operates, of course, without the daunting overhead of real estate, printing and distribution costs.

Though sites like his are proliferating, they often vanish within weeks, which makes the number of online fashion magazines difficult to track. Some struggle for revenues, but a few are drawing blue chip advertisers, including Neiman Marcus, Tiffany and Lancôme. Advertisers can pay $10,000 to $50,000 to promote their products on a Webzine.

Some provide links to their Web sites; others a top-of-page banner or a "skin," which takes over the white background of a Web page. Some provide a full-color interactive page masquerading as a fashion feature. In a recent edition of Net-a-Porter Notes, Aquascutum took the imaginative leap of inviting the viewers of its page to peek behind the scenes of its ad shoot by clicking to a video.

As Mandese and his peers point out, advertisers migrate to the Web because it can be cheaper and more cost effective. Gucci is paying $50,000 to be the exclusive sponsor of a three-month fall campaign on Hintmag.com. A single color page in a leading fashion glossy can cost $60,000 to $110,000.

Results of online advertising are also more readily measured. Sales and traffic can be tracked by reader click-throughs to marketers' Web sites.

Advertising is often placed on a group of sites through increasingly powerful and competitive "vertical" networks like AdBrite, Adcision and Glam Media, a behemoth that operates more than 600 sites and has 77 million unique worldwide visitors a month, according to comScore Media Metrix.

"Arguably the networks represent the threat to print from online," said Barry Parr, a media analyst with Forrester Research. But he added that for an advertiser, "there is nothing you can do on the Web that can substitute for the impact of an eight-page insert in the September Vogue."

Others counter that Webzines are even now siphoning revenues from their print-world cousins. "The preponderance of ad spending is still in the traditional media," Mandese said. But, he said, as marketers reach for Web audiences, which are widely perceived as hipper and more influential than those for print, "we are going to see a rationalization to shift money online just because it looks good."

Many traditional magazines have struggled to find an online audience, often because their content so closely mimics the print and because they aim for the mainstream.

"Readers' interests have becoming increasingly and deeply fragmented," Arora said. To cater to those interests, Webzines are poaching print-world editors respected for their expertise in subjects that vary from models to designer mules.

"In the future there won't be one all-powerful fashion editor — there will be many," Arora said. "We are looking for the 20 new Anna Wintours."

New Fragrance Women 2008

2008-08-08T17:58:00.000-07:00

New fragrances Women 1423 results found
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FANCY
by: Jessica Simpson
For: Women
type: Floral - Fruity
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The fragrance opens with sparkling notes of pear, apricot nectar and red fruits. The heart unveils dewy gardenia laced with night blooming jasmine and toasted almonds. The base melts creamy sanda... Read On

Jeanne LANVIN
by: Lanvin
For: Women
type: Floral - Fruity
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
Anne Flipo wanted a brief formula centered on musk, an ingredient that’s ‘both light-hearted and romantic’, (editor’s note: white musks). The result is a light, fruity-floral fragrance pairing no... Read On

Dark Amber & Ginger Lily
by: jo Malone
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The scent opens with spicy notes of cardamom and ginger. The floral heart blends orchid, night blooming jasmine and lily. The base melts incense, amber and warm woods. It can be worn alone or com... Read On

MY LIFE / Hommage à Marlene Dietrich
by: Grès
For: Women
type: Chypre - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The fragrance opens with orange blossom, wisteria and pink grapefruit. The fragrance is given a special kick by a warm note of rum that blends with Sambac jasmine and heliotrope. The base note mi... Read On

Tootsie Roll
by: Demeter Fragrance Library
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
A gourmand combination of fudge, caramel, chocolate and vanilla. For women or men. Read On

Covet Pure Bloom
by: Sarah jessica parker
For: Women
type: Floral - Jasmine
Created: 2008
Rated:
Lush, feminine, floral, Covet Pure Bloom opens with purple plum, mandarin and coconut water. The floral heart mixes tuberose, royal indonesian pikake and jasmine. The sensuous base glows in a mix... Read On

Oriental Flower
by: Esteban
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated:
A floral-oriental-woodsy scent with a vibrant opening of aldehydes and mandarin orange. The orange blossom-and-tuberose heart is softened with lavender. Vanilla and cedar wood bring the fragrance... Read On

MONTANA EN TURQUOISE
by: Montana
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated:
Highlighted with fresh sea-breeze notes, bergamot opens the scent. The floral, sun-drenched heart reveals lily, ylang-ylang and orchid. The warm, summer-vacation dry down blends white musks, vani... Read On

Deseo Forever
by: Jennifer Lopez
For: Women
type: Floral - Fruity
Created: 2008
US only
Rated:
The sheer, fruity floral scent opens with sparkling notes of apple and bergamot. The floral heart blends orange blossom, rose, magnolia and French mimosa. The mineral base melts amber, sensuous w... Read On

Fleur de Corail
by: Lolita Lempicka
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated:
A harmony of citrus heralds the arrival of frangipani blossom, warmed up with vanilla orchid, bursts of amber, musks and floating woods. Designed by: Maurice Roucel and Alexandre Carlin, Symrise Read On

New fragrances Men 2008

2008-08-08T17:42:00.000-07:00

New fragrances Men 724 results found
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Infusion d'Homme
by: PRADA
For: Men
type: Oriental - Woody
Created: 2008
Rated:
Very similar to Infusion d’Iris, it is nevertheless distinguished by a more aldehyde-y, sparkling opening thanks to mandarin orange and neroli, which ‘exalt the clean and comfortable aspects’. Th... Read On

Acqua Azzurra
by: Gianfranco Ferre
For: Men
type: Aromatic - Aquatic
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The scent opens with hesperidic notes of bergamot and orange blossom. The heart blends floral notes and ginger. The woody base is freshened up with a marine accord. Perfumer : Mark Buxton, Symris... Read On

ORANGER ALHAMBRA
by: Armani
For: Men
type: Citrus - Aromatic
Created: 2008
Rated:
An opening of sparkling citrus fruit, in which bitter Seville orange introduces petit-grain’s greener scent. Rosemary and marjoram bestow a ‘rougher, aromatic facet’ on jasmine. Moss and patchoul... Read On

Perry Ellis for men
by: Perry Ellis
For: Men
type: Woody - Floral musk
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The scent opens with crisp green apple accord followed with frozen ozone and bergamot. The heart blends masculine florals such as orange blossom, lavender and violet. The drydown is comprised of... Read On

GREEN
by:
For: Men
type: Woody - Floral musk
Created: 2008
Rated:
A green, floral, musky fragrance with just a hint of wood. Petit-grain intertwines with honeysuckle, sage and violet. Designed by: Jerôme Epinette, Robertet Read On

Li Altarelli
by: Stéphanie de Saint Aignan
For: Men
type: Citrus - Aromatic
Created: 2008
Rated:
A ‘thrilling eau’ with an opening of citrus and green notes. The aromatic heart is garbed in notes with a hint of flowers and sea air. The fragrance evolves towards a dry, woody, almost chypre tr... Read On

Izod
by: IZOD
For: Men
type: Aromatic - Fougere
Created: 2008
US only
Rated:
The fragrance blends fresh citrus notes with warm aromatic notes. The scent is complete with marine notes, creating a clean, crisp, masculine scent. Read On

L'Eau par Kenzo ICE pour homme
by: Kenzo
For: Men
type: Citrus - Aromatic
Created: 2008
Rated:
A zesty opening of Mexican lime and mint refreshed with a plant-based accord. A spicy heart of cardamom, clove and nutmeg. The fragrance evolves towards a trail of gentle woods. Read On

Quiksilver
by: Quiksilver
For: Men
type: Woody - Aromatic
Created: 2008
Rated:
A fresh, fruity citrus opening. An aromatic heart with a hint of spices and sea breezes. A gently woody, musky trail. Designed by: Antoine Maisondieu, Givaudan Read On

Tom of Finland
by: Etat Libre d'Orange
For: Men
type: Oriental - Woody
Created: 2008
Rated:
A sensual blend evoking leather (pyrogenated styrax oil, suede note), the metal of belt buckles and the woody notes of outdoor ‘festivities’. Vibrant aldehyde notes evoke the freshness of a long,... Read On

What a chic new bag. And X-ray friendly, too. (From Herald Tribune)

2008-08-08T04:13:00.000-07:00

What a chic new bag. And X-ray friendly, too.
By Joe Sharkey
Published: August 5, 2008
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The Transportation Security Administration had planned to brief and train screeners by September to recognize and handle newly designed luggage bags that would enable travelers to keep laptops in their cases at airport security checkpoints.
But that has changed. Because at least one company already has the new bags on the market, the agency accelerated the timetable and will have its officers up to speed by Aug. 16, a spokeswoman for the agency, Ellen Howe, said.
Initially, September had seemed about right. After all, once the agency gave the green light to the concept, various manufacturers needed time to design new "checkpoint friendly" cases that met agency's specifications and get them into production.
The specifications require a bag design that allows the X-ray equipment to have a clear view of the laptop itself, unobstructed by pockets, flaps or extra gear like power cords.
Several big manufacturers said they expected to have products available by late September or mid-October. So agency officials thought they had until after the U.S. Labor Day to get ready.
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"I guess they underestimated the American entrepreneur," said Ben Bosma, general manager of a small aviation and travel accessories company, Aerovation Products, in Tipp City, Ohio.
Bosma's company, which he operates with his wife, Ginny, already has checkpoint-friendly bags on the market. Bosma said he has sold (and in some cases given away as promotions) about 1,100 bags.
"It's very important to be first in the marketplace," said Bosma, a former Air Force pilot. Before it joined the rush to produce checkpoint-friendly bags, Aerovation specialized in specialty baseball caps for pilots to wear comfortably under bulky headsets.
The Chinese factory that makes Aerovation's caps promptly took the designs for the new laptop bags and began turning them out, he said. The bags were snapped up as soon as they arrived in the United States by travelers who did not want to deal with removing laptops from cases and placing them on the X-ray belt at security gates, he said.
It is not laziness that makes travelers want to circumvent the rule, which is right up there with having to remove shoes as a checkpoint irritations. They see their unprotected laptops trundle along the checkpoint belt to be rudely deposited into a pileup at the other end. In the commotion, there is the potential for damage, theft and misplacement.
"I'm extremely paranoid about my laptop when I come to the checkpoint," said Jim Lahren, the vice president for marketing at Briggs & Riley, a big travel luggage company. Briggs & Riley announced last week that it would be the "first to market" with new laptop bags, which it expects to have available in retail stores on Aug. 15.
But Bosma's little company had already quietly claimed the title. Being first, of course, can have a price. Some customers complained to Bosma that some airport screeners had told them they knew nothing about the new rule and required owners of checkpoint-friendly bags to remove their laptops just like everyone else.
So Bosma posted a disclaimer on the Aerovation Web site (www.aerovation.com) that says, in part: "We've had customers who've been told to remove their laptops from the bag for screening. This isn't the fault of the bag. TSA is moving as quickly as possible to deploy signage and new standard operating procedures to their screeners."
Agency officials were amazed that a retailer could get the bags produced so quickly. "We'll get the word out," Kip Hawley, director of the agency, told me the other day. The agency is now accelerating training and other procedures to be ready by mid-August.
The bags come in various styles. The most basic design is a protective sleeve that can be slipped out from a carry-on bag. More complex designs include a laptop compartment that unzips and can be folded down flat on the belt.
Most big travel luggage manufacturers are rushing to get new models of checkpoint bags out. Targus, the largest maker of cases for laptops and notebooks, began production in China early last month, and says that the first of its new models will be available by October.

‘Sexy Darling’( From Fashion Window)

2008-08-08T03:55:00.000-07:00

PARIS, Aug 5, 2008 / FW/ — ‘Sexy Darling’, the new fragrance from Kylie Minogue captures the songstress’ irresistible beauty and inherent sexiness. We’ve known her as a pop princess, the girl next door, rock chick, even a time traveler with Dr Who.
In all of these incarnations, Kylie Minogue essence stays the same – a sparkling personality with a seductive charm. ‘Sexy Darling’ with its alluring floral woody fragrance that tempts and enthralls embodies all that.
Sexy Darling’s sensuality is built around the natural floral sexiness of the exotic belle de nuit flower and the red rose, enhanced by a mouth-watering pear note. A veil of musk and sandalwood unite them for a unique, exquisite signature.
Working closely with Coty on the development of Sexy Darling, Kylie Minogue comments, “With Sexy Darling I wanted to capture this by creating a fragrance for today’s sexy, self assured woman who is passionate and playful… a woman who is seductive and sensual.” The result - a distinctive fragrance that embodies Kylie’s glamorous, sexy femininity.
“I firmly believe that sexiness is all to do with your state-of-mind, some people radiate an inner sense of self-esteem and beauty that’s irresistible. With Sexy Darling I wanted to capture this by creating a fragrance for today’s sexy, self assured woman who is passionate and playful… a woman who is seductive and sensual,” added the Australian-born songstress.
Packaged in elegant, gracefully rounded Sexy Darling bottle, the stylish shape will be a stylish, must-have addition to any dressing table. Deep red and black in colour and emblazoned with a silver Sexy Darling logo, it’s as sensual and enticing as the fragrance inside.
The packaging echoes the bottle with its deep red box, glittering holographic effect logo and Kylie’s trademark ‘K’ in a black lace pattern that evokes her seductive glamour.

Paper or Plastic? Neither, I use the Better Bag

2008-08-05T18:25:00.000-07:00

LOS ANGELES, Aug 4, 2008 / FW/ — ‘Paper or plastic?’ is a familiar question at the grocery store, but if the environmentalists have their way, this question will not even be asked at all. Here in L.A., the city council plans to ban plastic carryout bags in the city’s stores by 2010, unless the State of California imposes a 25-cent fee on those who request them.
Environmentally friendly or not, if the city ordinance passes, the Save the Plastic Bag Coalition is fighting efforts to regulate its products. The group filed a lawsuit last week challenging a Los Angeles County plan to reduce plastic bags about 30% by 2010.
Now, before the environmentalists and those who just want to save their jobs start slinging mud to each other, just remember that there are two sides to a story. In fact, this story has three sides as CSIPlastics Inc, a plastics recycler company throws its hat in the ring with the Better Bag, a plastic bag that is reusable and recyclable.
With a life cycle of two years, (four seasons in fashion terms), the Better Bag is good for the environment and for your pocketbook.
“Our company only sells the Better Bag wholesale, but the suggested retail price is between $1.99 to $2.99,” said Steve Silver, owner of CSIPlastics and designer of the Better Bag.
“The bag is affordable enough for majority of people to use it. And, with a useful life cycle of two years, the Better Bag is a great buy,” Silver added.
Made with recycled material and still fully recyclable, the Better Bag provides a truly green product for environmentally minded consumers.

Runway Show-2008

2008-08-05T18:22:00.001-07:00

Fall 2008 :

New York
London
Milan
Paris
Los Angeles
Haute Couture
Milan Menswear
Paris Menswear

Top 5 Fashion News (From Fashion File)

2008-08-03T20:41:00.000-07:00

Top 5 Spring 2008 Ad Campaigns
We’ve all moaned about the absurd number of ad pages you have to wade through to get to the good stuff in magazines. But companies spend millions of dollars to get your attention…

Top 5 Celeb Designers
First they got famous. Then they got into fashion. On today’s top 5, the top 5 celebrities turned designers...

Top 5 Bikini Moments
Let’s face it. A great bikini scene can make a bad movie a blockbuster hit and the person wearing the bikini an instant star. So, what are Fashion File’s favourite bikini scenes on film? Let’s count them down...

Top 5 Bad Model Movies
Check out Fashion File's Top 5 – the top 5 bad movies starring good models.

Top 5 Celebrity Dressing Do's and Don'ts
It’s no secret that celebrities work with stylists. But what happens when they veer off on their own? Here’s a look at some of the hits and misses that took place OFF the runway at the Spring/Summer 08 collections.

Top 5 Essentials - Spring/Summer 2008
What’s a countdown without some do’s and don’ts? Do wear the major trends for Spring 08 but definitely Don’t rock head to toe looks right off the runway - grab a few select pieces instead – here’s a shopping list of the top 5 essentials of the season.

Top 5 Collections - Spring/Summer 2008
This season, we liked the designers who had big ideas and who weren't afraid to take risks.

Top 5 Accessories - Spring/Summer 2008
The right accessories can transform last summer's overplayed dress into something totally on trend for the new season. So, what are the must have pieces for spring? Here's our hit list.

Top 5 Swimsuits - Spring/Summer 2008
Whether you'll be lounging by the pool, jumping in a lake or diving from a yacht off Capri, our favourite swimsuits this season have a little something for everyone.

Top Beauty Looks - Spring/Summer 2008
For the Top 5 Beauty Looks of the season, we turned to some of the best make-up artists in the business. We asked them to break down their runway looks and show YOU how to get them.

Top Celebrity Moments - Spring/Summer 2008
Every season celebrities turn up during fashion week to catch their favourite shows and designers. Here are some of our most memorable celebrity moments.

Top 5 Mens Collections- Spring/Summer 2008
For some men the beginning of a new fashion season is a cause for panic. Don’t worry guys, we’ve got you covered with our Top 5 Mens Collections for Spring.

Top 5 Trends - Spring/Summer 2008
When it comes to Spring trends, designers love to come back to their favourites. Which means that theoretically, you could wear a lot of the stuff you bought last year and still look okay. But who wants to look okay?

Top 5 Models - Spring/Summer 2008
One's a former hockey player, one's from Norway, and another was discovered while working at an Old Navy Store. Watch as Fashion File introduces you to the Top 5 Models of the season.

Sole Survivors: Crocs Travel Well-Worn Path

2008-08-03T02:59:00.000-07:00

Sole Survivors: Crocs Travel Well-Worn Path
by Bilal Qureshi

The popularity of the grunge look in the 1970s and 80s transformed the once-boutique Dr. Martens footwear into a household name among urban hipsters — who affectionately referred to the leather boots as "Docs." The British-made shoes, with their hefty soles and iconic yellow stitching, came in a series of designs ranging from 18-hole boots to summer sandals.
But the shoe's performance waned as the fickle world of fashion moved on to newer trends. In 2003 Airwair, the parent company of Dr. Martens, closed down its historic production plants in the United Kingdom to offset declining sales and revenue, and it shifted operations to China and Thailand.
More recently, Dr. Martens has tried to revive its brand by launching a series of edgy marketing campaigns, but the shoe has yet to regain its mainstream glory days of the past.
"Docs" and now possibly the Crocs join a long line of bold shoe styles that once attained cult status, earning parent companies hefty profits — but whose bottom lines ebbed and flowed like the fashion trends that shaped them.
Here's a sampling of a few other "where are they now" shoe stars of the past:
Earth shoes: These understated "earthy" shoes were extremely popular in the 1970s and have recently begun to make somewhat of a comeback. Earth shoes were often deemed low in fashion but high on comfort and durability, mainly owing to their use of ergonomic negative-heel technology — a style in which the heel was positioned lower than the toe. Earth shoe sales hit a peak in 1974, and sales declined quickly as they fell out of style. Although the company declared bankruptcy in 1977, Earth shoes are still available.
Airwalks: Colorado-based Airwalks were introduced in 1986 and became a staple of the alt-skater culture of the1990s — a shoe to challenge the laced-up status quo. The company's low-top shoes evolved into a full clothing line that popularized an active, edgy lifestyle. But in 2003, Airwalks faced foreclosure due to internal business problems, and the shoe was acquired by an outside firm in 2004. Airwalks are now sold through Payless shoe stores.
Timberland: These iconic yellow work boots may have been designed for professional use, but "Tims" gained popularity in the 1990s as luxury consumer shoes with brawn and an air of authority and assertiveness. Over time, the shoes became a wardrobe staple among the hip-hopperati and woodsy suburbanites. But as consumers sought more low-profile footwear, Timberlands fell out of everyday use and are now mainly popular among trade professionals.
Candie's: Bolstered by high-profile celebrity endorsements and provocative advertising campaigns, these midpriced women's shoes were another hit maker during the 1990s. The company dated back to the 1970s, but under the leadership of Neil Cole — brother of famous shoemaker Kenneth Cole — Candie's expanded its offerings to include clothing and eyewear. Sales rose to $115 million in 1999 from $38 million in 1996. But the brand began to struggle in the early 2000s and has yet to regain its once-pervasive standing in the footwear industry. The company recently unveiled actress Hayden Panettiere as its latest spokeswoman, in an effort to target its key young female demographic.
Jelly Shoes: During the 1980s these women's flats, made out of a clear jellylike substance derived from PVC materials, were widely available at very low prices in grocery stores and discount retailers. Often customized with stickers or glitter, "Jellies" are making somewhat of a comeback among fashion-"backward" hipsters and can be found in stores like Urban Outfitters.

Crocs Losing Foothold Among Young Consumers

2008-08-03T02:54:00.000-07:00

Morning Edition, August 1, 2008 · Colorado-based Crocs Inc. stock has lost 90 percent of its value since last October, and the company predicts its shoe sales in the U.S. will decline by 20 percent this year.

So what happened? Company officials blame the economy.

"A sharp downturn in mall traffic, and retailers becoming more and more cautious with the frequency and quantity of their reorders, negatively impacted our business during the second quarter," said Crocs CEO Ron Snyder during a conference call with analysts on July 25.

But Crocs also face an image problem, especially among young consumers who see them as an old-person's shoe.

"They're comfortable, but they're stupid. They're ugly," said Ashley Dixon, of Wichita, Kan. "They're big and foamy … why did they even make them?"

That's a harsh assessment, but one that Crocs knows is out there. The company recently released a television advertisement showing a man screaming at a blue Crocs shoe and asking, "Why are you wearing these? Why? Why? Why?"

"A lot of people believe it's the end for the company.… I don't think so," said Wedbush Morgan Securities analyst Jeff Mintz. "I think they have a viable strategy now." Mintz's company was involved in Crocs' initial public stock offering in 2006.

Crocs hired marketing expert Adam Baker in May. Baker used to work for Nike. The company is making new shoes that look almost nothing like its brightly colored clogs. And Crocs plans to tailor its lines to the stores where they're sold. So, the Crocs you see at Macy's will be different from those at REI.

Mintz says the company needs to regain the confidence of investors and prove that Crocs are more than just a passing fad.

Gianfranco Ferre: It’s Raining Men (From Fashion Window)

2008-08-03T01:05:00.000-07:00

MILAN, Jul 11, 2008 / FW/ — Opting to show the whole Spring / Summer 2009 collection all at once, the Gianfranco Ferré menswear presentation held during the last week of June here in Milan is a mixture of the gentlemanly urban male, the Ivy League student and the young corporate up-and-coming guy.
The label actually does not show any sign of slowing down. Last Jun 17, on the eve of the Milano Moda Uomo Spring 2009 seasons, Gianfranco Ferré opened its 18th boutique in China, which is the second Ferré Milano concept store in the country.

With two more scheduled to open later this year in Guiyang and Zhengzhou, the Gianfranco Ferré retail network in Asia continues to expand. These latest openings confirm the success of Ferré Milano in the Far East, where it owns dedicated stores in Indonesia, Taiwan, and Malaya, and strengthen the international expansion of the brand, which is already available in such locations as Istanbul, Moscow, Warsaw, Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, and Jakarta.

The Gianfranco Ferré retail network in the Asian continent totals 31 branded stores in addition to the 32 Gianfranco Ferré boutiques and 19 of the young line GF Ferré, which includes boutiques in Hong Kong, Tokyo, Beijing, Macao, and Seoul, is expanded through the opening of new Ferré Milano branded stores.

I see the future

2008-07-15T23:25:00.000-07:00

Mary J Blige Lyrics
We Ride ( I see the Future) Lyrics

Superfly　愛をこめて花束を

2008-07-11T02:11:00.000-07:00

New Orleans Jazz

2008-07-10T22:05:00.002-07:00

You don't know what love is

2008-07-10T22:05:00.001-07:00

Sexy dancing girl

2008-07-10T21:50:00.000-07:00

2008-07-08T00:26:00.000-07:00

Shakira Lyrics
Hips Don't Lie Lyrics

This ain't a love song

2008-07-07T23:55:00.000-07:00

I should have seen it coming when roses died
Should have seen the end of summer in your eyes
I should have listened when you said good night
You really meant good bye
Baby, ain’t it funny, how you never ever learn to fall
You’re really on your knees, when you think you’re standing tall
But only fools are "know-it-alls" and I played that fool for you

I cried and I cried
There were nights that died for you baby
I tried and I tried to deny that your love drove me crazy, baby

If the love that I got for you is gone
If the river I cried ain’t that long
Then I’m wrong, yeah I’m wrong, this ain’t a love song

Baby, I thought you and me would stand the test of time
Like we got away with the perfect crime but
We were just a legend in my mind
I guess that I was blind
Remember those nights dancing at the masquerade
The clowns wore smiles that wouldn’t fade
You and I were the renegades, some things never change

It made me so mad ’cause I wanted it bad for us baby
Now it’s so sad that whatever we had, ain’t worth saving
If the love that I got for you is gone
If the river I’ve cried ain’t that long
Then I’m wrong, yes I’m wrong, this ain’t a love song

If the pain that I’m feeling so strong
Is the reason that I’m holding on
Then I’m wrong, yeah I’m wrong - this ain’t a love song

I cried and I cried
There were nights that I died for you baby
I tried and I tried to deny that your love drove me crazy

If the love that I got for you is gone
If the river I cried ain’t that long
Then I’m wrong, yeah I’m wrong - this ain’t no love song

If the pain that I’m feeling so strong
Is the reason that I’m holding on
Then I’m wrong, yeah I’m wrong - this ain’t a love song

If the pain that I’m feeling so strong
Is the reason that I’m holding on
Then I’m wrong, yeah I’m wrong - this ain’t a love song
Yes, I’m wrong, yeah, I’m wrong - this ain’t a love song
Yes, I’m wrong, yeah, I’m wrong - this ain’t a love song
Yes, I’m wrong, yeah, I’m wrong - this ain’t a love song

Goodbye to Romance

2008-07-06T21:49:00.000-07:00

Yesterday has been and gone
Tommorow will I find the sun
or will it rain
Everybody's having fun except me I'm the lonely one
I live in shame

I said goodbye to romance [yeah]
Goodbye to friends, I tell you
Goodbye to all the past
I guess that we'll meet,
we'll meet in the end

I've been the king, I've been the clown
now broken wings can't hold me down
I'm free again
The jester with the broken crown
It won't be me this time around
to love in vain

I said goodbye to romance [yeah]
Goodbye to friends, I tell you
Goodbye to all the past
I guess that we'll meet,
we'll meet in the end

and I feel the time is right
although I know that you just might say to me
what you gonna do
what you gonna do

But I have to check this chance
goodbye to friends and to romance
And to all of you
And to all of you

Come'on now!

I said goodbye to romance [yeah]
Goodbye to friends, I tell you
Goodbye to all the past
I guess that we'll meet,
we'll meet in the end

and the winter is looking fine
and I think the sun will shine again
and I feel I've cleaned my mind
all the past is left behind again

I said goodbye to romance [yeah]
goodbye to friends, I tell you
goodbye to all the past
I guess that we'll meet,
we'll meet in the end.

Tattoo

2008-07-04T19:49:00.001-07:00

http://www.twcam.com/movie/cam/?id=3786428&mid=1885384&a=1

Burning Life

2008-06-29T18:41:00.001-07:00

灼熱的生命(Burning Life)
作詞：王新蓮　作曲：林瓊瓏/韓賢光　編曲：Chris Babida

燃燒　灼熱的生命　慢慢的燒
讓我睜大眼睛　把一切都看清
把煙霧全雪開　無悔無恨的走下去
燃燒　灼熱的生命　慢慢的燒
過去現在未來　全在我心裡
什麼輪迴我不管　浴火重生新的自己
啊－　山高水深　雲淡風清
生命的章法　複雜的一如繁星
火鳳凰的願望　是剎那間的那個決定
而我奔竄的血液　正是那件火紅的外衣
燃燒　灼熱的生命　慢慢的　慢慢的燒
燃燒　灼熱的生命　慢慢的　慢慢的燒

Move This

2008-06-21T21:33:00.000-07:00

Come on move this
Shake that body
Shake that body
Shake that body
Shake that body
People don't you know
Don't you know its about time
Can you hear the jammin' pumpin'
While you taste a piece of mine
Many different flavors and this
Spice is strong
Get into the hot stuff
Let me pour a little song
Baby let me show you how to do this
You got to move this
You're doin' fine
There's nothin' to it
You got to groove it
Come on and move this
Shake that body for ...
People don't you know
Don't you know its about time
Can you hear the jammin' pumpin'
While you taste a piece of mine
Many different flavors and this
Spice is strong
Get into the hot stuff
Let me pour a little song
Baby let me show you how to do this
You got to move this
Technotronic
You're doin' fine
There's nothin' to it
You got to groove it
Come on and move this
Shake that body for me
Shake that body for me
Shake that body
People don't you know
Don't you know it's about time
Can you hear the jammin' pumpin'
While you taste a piece of mine
Can you feel the mellow crawlin' fast
Drummer baby rhythm blast
Pump it Pump it pump pump it up
Nothin' can make this one stop
[break]
You've got to move this
You've got to move this
Oh Yeah
You got to move this and groove this
And move this song
Shake that body for ...
Baby let me show you how to ... do this
You gotta ... move this
You gotta .. move that
You gotta moo-ooo-oove moo-ooo-oove
Move this and groove it
Shake that body for me
[break]
Shake that body
Shake that body (hmm)
Shake that body for me
Shake that body (cool)
Shake that body
Shake that body for me
Shake it Shake it
You gotta move this
Come on and move this
.. Move this Move this Move this
You gotta move this
Come on and move this
.. Move it Move it Move it
Baby let me show you how to do this
You gotta .. move this
You're doin' fine
There's nothin' to it
You gotta groove it
Come on and move it
Shake that body
People don't you know
Don't you know it's about time
Can't you hear the jammin' pumpin'
While you taste a piece of mine
Drummer baby rhythm blast
Pump it Pump it pump pump it up
Nothin' can make this one stop
Toes be tappin' fingers snappin'
Hands clappin' My mouth's rappin'
Talkin' about how cold laughin'
Shut up and do the walk
Use what you got. Show me you're on the floor
So let me see. Don't say nothin' unless I soul
And remember I like it warm.
You gotta move this
You gotta move this
Oh yeah yeah yeah
You gotta move this
Uh Uh Uh Uh
Shake that body for me

Non chiamatelo un ritorno

2008-05-25T03:16:00.000-07:00

To the top

2008-05-24T00:53:00.000-07:00

With or Without “酒”(台語發音)

2008-05-19T00:27:00.000-07:00

See the stone set in your eyes
See the thorn twist in your side
I wait for you
Sleight of hand and twist of fate
On a bed of nails she makes me wait
And I wait without “酒”

With or without “酒”
With or without “酒”

Through the storm, we reach the shore
You gave it all but I want more
And I'm waiting for you

With or without “酒”
With or without “酒”
I can't live with or without you

And you give yourself away
And you give yourself away
And you give, and you give
And you give yourself away

My hands are tied, my body bruised
She's got me with nothing to win
And nothing left to lose

And you give yourself away
And you give yourself away
And you give, and you give
And you give yourself away

With or without “酒“
With or without “酒”
I can't live
With or without “酒”

With or without “酒”
With or without “酒”
I can't live
With or without “酒”
With or without “酒”

台客精神

2008-05-18T00:31:00.000-07:00

　　喝醉了以後　還能想些什麼
　是純純的愛　是飄飄的愁
　　不要說你我　都無法掙脫
　　只要閉著眼睛　妳就會感動
　　將一個天空　劃上一道彩虹
　　有綠綠的樹　和暖暖的風
　　給我一杯酒　我輕輕的說
　　只要忘記曾經　妳就能自由
　　是誰將我的夢敲破
　太陽下的河水它不停留
　有一個美麗的新世界　它在遠方等我
　那裡有天真的孩子　還有姑娘的酒窩
　有一個美麗的新世界　叫我慢慢的走
　海浪它總是一波波　不要停歇不回頭

葛林斯班寫-我們的新世界

伍佰唱-美麗新世界

每個人心中都存在對未來的憧景…

四川災民期盼的是及時的救援
“美麗新世界”對他們而言或許是過份奢求，但仍祝福他們能早日重建家園

”台客精神”在這段期間展現無疑
在世界其它角落很難看到這樣的現象
以色列V.S.巴基斯坦;車臣V.S.俄羅斯…等
有那個國家會像台灣這樣對待一個欺負他的對手

幾十億的金援、物資…(外資援助第一名)
可能比不上災民的喪親之痛
無法讓大陸當局轉變對台打壓
被拒於國際組織之外
牽涉到台商在大陸的發展利益
.
.
.
但台客精神依就漂洋過海臨於四川
看著朋友開玩笑的MSN 各人訊息”同胞們要不要回歸台灣”…呵呵
對我而言…
「美麗的新界」=台灣不要在受到不平等的對待

隨筆

2008-05-10T01:09:00.000-07:00

那晚小試了一下煮了…

口感介於西班牙海鮮飯和燉飯間的…我也不知該如何定義~
爆香洋蔥和香料後，加米過炒，逐一加人魚高湯收汁，等米心快熟時再加人吻仔魚伴勻，最後在加人原味優格中合口感

「皇帝豆泥」-輕爽的一道，伴人些許鮮奶油、牛奶伴成泥後再撒上香料(鼠尾草、香草、迷蝶香、白芝麻…等
PS:和表哥烤的漢包還有我那不知名的“飯“真搭!當還有紅酒(Chateau Charron)的佐餐，不過因時間不夠~無法細細體會

在二樓的小花園享用短暫的半小時…得去教數學了!
美食之後欣賞一下抽象藝術之美

滿會亂扯的，為了讓一整天已被疲勞炸的學生，還得聽我解釋三角函數
只好把料理、調酒和品酒用數學的角度解釋，博取學生的注意…T_T
她聽地很高興不過有沒有抓到數學的精神??? 不知道~呵呵

上完後剛好和朋友品上一杯~Elegence de Lesparre
接近它時感覺不太對原來是新開的
因為和上次聞到的味道不一樣
不強烈但細柔的Nutty、油質味…
口感上其是有較強味覺的果香、甜味，並有酸度支撐著
不夠用的時間稍稍預留了這麼一點滿足，踏上歸途~

夜晚的城市杯中的紅酒數學總是上著另人心醉的薄紗
掀開一層又一層無盡的找尋…
停下的剎那我笑著

3:20 a.m. 步出Brass Monkey
復興南路上，城市的另一面原來這麼美好這樣就夠了~
這一幕浮現直到綠燈起!

“傳產”的迷思

2008-04-29T21:02:00.001-07:00

最近剛好回學校一趟，拜會教授之外，順便請益一些做人做事的道理(好沉重…T_T);
恰巧發現教授也有一個部落格在Google，索性就直接把教授的部落格加人∞-Net
(簡而言之，就是無限大符號加上Net=無限大網路，這個網路正是助我組成人生夢想的重要架構;
∞-是我理想中，工作室的名稱)

在教授的部落格中發現這樣一篇文章在探討”電子產業”和”傳統產業”;
頓時，腦中浮現出這樣一個問題-“釀造、行銷葡萄酒是傳統產業還是現代產業?”

或許支持舊世界釀酒法的人會覺得-”葡萄酒業是傳統產業”，
但我不這麼想;就葡萄生長、釀造的過程而言，氣候占了很重要的因素。
然而，人類不會影響氣候嗎?別做夢!溫室效應這麼嚴重，是誰造成的~
(不要把責任都推到工程師頭上，想想看都是誰在用這些東西;
看外國影片常會聽到這麼一句話:「槍不會殺人、而是人會殺人」…因該沒記錯!);
另外，能讓葡萄酒在台灣這樣的環境活下去，科技貢獻不少吧!所以說囉，葡萄酒還是受現代科技影響不淺。

被冠上”傳統”這名詞，不過是它發展的歷史和其它產業相比較久遠點罷了!
若有人總是以”時間”來看待事物的定位，或許是”倚老賣老”的心態作祟吧!
相對地，若有人因此把所謂”傳統”的事物視為”過氣”產物，那可大錯特錯!
比方說，已有介紹酒品晶片的發明問世
(把一發聲晶片貼在酒上，錄下關於此葡萄酒的種種資訊，並於顧客在選購葡萄酒時，自動作簡介);
當然Rainman也有想過，若是可以把”全像術”運用在酒瓶上，
說不定林裕森老師的著作-「酒瓶裡的風景」，真的不是夢!

請看文章中用紫色highlight起來的地方(主要在談”服務品質”)，能提供什麼給顧客?
這很重要，現網路、資訊如此發達，加上大家都愈來愈會精打細算，
說實在的對提供服務者本身，還真是一大挑戰!您能提供怎樣的服務，顧客都會銘記在心頭。

老話一句，不是國外的月亮比較圓，而是自已不爭氣

(以下文章轉載於”嚴成文的想法”）

畢業後去那裡-電子還是傳統產業?

過去的十數年，我們都鼓勵也試著幫助我們的學生進入電子產業。
股票夢的驅使下，我們的同學也確實嚮往電子產業。
事實上，過去近二十年我所擔任過指導教授的研究生們，也大部分都任職於各大上市上櫃的電子公司。
令我們感到高興且驕傲的是，這些學長們都成為社會中堅，有朝一日也許會變成國家的棟樑。
但是，最近我發現情況有所不同，傳統產業的機會似乎漸漸打開，值得大家注意。
以下，我先說明幾個重要的變化：

首先，得注意的轉捩點是台灣科技公司將過去發放股票的制度改成「員工分紅費用化」。
股票發財夢已不存在，取而代之的是有限的薪資調整。
過去每天晚上不到九、十點不敢下班，加班沒有加班費，過著不是人的生活，目的就是為了拼股票，
看能不能用十幾年青春的全部來換取到四十幾歲的提早退休。股票分不到，那為什麼我們還要做這麼大的犧牲？

第二，代工文化掛帥的狀況下，台灣的電子產業已經愈來愈沒有高科技的味道。
為了節省財務和時間的成本，台灣的電子產業愈來愈不敢在嘗試錯誤中創新。
在設計及製造的過程中，作風甚至比許多傳統產業更加保守。在這種缺乏創意的環境中工作，我們能多快樂？

第三，台灣的電子產業附加價值持續下探，已經到了薄利都未必多銷的地步。
所以只好外移產業或把一個工程師當成兩、三人用。
這種情況看不出有改善的跡象，因為大老闆都還不肯投資R&D，附加價值也就無從創造。

第四，為了不斷刺激消費者的購買慾，電子產品不斷的在為推陳出新而推陳出新，
隨之而來的就是產品規格不斷進行未必有意義的世代交替，最後的結果就是累死工程師，
讓工程師不管是在體能或專業能力上都很難撐過40歲。天啊！那我40歲以後如何維生？

整理上列各點，我們發現台灣電子產業的工程師其實只是工時長、創意發揮空間小、專業壽命短而且幾無生活品質可言的高級技工而已。
說技工還真的不誇張，有的半導體廠就是叫一流國立大學畢業的工程師洗機台、顧機器而已。
在過去，為了錢這一切都也許還有妥協的空間，如今錢景日益黯淡，
大家在生涯規劃上恐怕不能再和十年、二十年前的學長姐一樣了。

相形之下，傳統產業的員工通常上下班時間都較正常，職場生命也因對員工經驗的倚重而較長。
今日的傳統產業之所以開始看好其關鍵原因就在「傳統產業高科技化」的這個可能性。
其中最早出現的成功事例就是金融業的資訊科技化，雖然金融業的產品及服務內容都很繁瑣，
但由於它們都具有高度的規則性，故非常適合以電腦處理，
結果不但是傳統的金融工作項目在處理效率上大幅提高，
資訊科技更使金融業有能力創造及操作新的金融產品及服務方式，營收也因此有了跳躍性的成長。

當然，金融業的財力也讓他們有能力由電子產業手中搶到一群資訊工程師為其服務。
反過來說，當員工分紅費用化造成股票發財難以再現之後，我們預期會有更多的工程師往傳統產業移動。

傳統產業，尤其是台灣的傳統產業，其大好機會開始出現的另一個原因是中國大陸、印度等國家崛起。
隨著生活的改善，這些地區二、三十億的人口對傳統產業產品的質與量的需求有爆發性的成長，
中間自然蘊藏著無窮商機。

過去由於技術層次不高，傳統產業多由在地廠商所壟斷。
但跨國企業在其科技化經營能力的加持下，早已打破這個多年不變的格局。
看看台灣的7-11及Starbuck如何在台灣攻城掠地，更別提麥當勞及必勝客如何在台灣創造營收。
更重要的是:這些傢伙的毛利絕對比鴻海的5%好很多。

我當然不是鼓勵大家去賣咖啡或漢堡，不過大家應該都也可以看到這些企業在與在地業者的競爭中，
可不是用微利價格取勝。
服務品質是可以跨國界的，因此台灣包括服務業在內的傳統產業揮軍大陸是大有可為的。
可是，在開拓這種機會的過程中，擁有高科技訓練背景的我們，到底能做些什麼？

丹麥是我最喜歡的實例，丹麥國民所得全球排名第七，是台灣的4.7倍，每週工作時數37小時（學長們，你的工作時數要不要乘2啊？）。
和台灣一樣缺乏天然資源，土地面積4.3萬平方公里，也只比台灣略大一點點，
但在「世界快樂地圖報告」中，丹麥的快樂指數在全球187個國家中排名第一，
如果考慮到丹麥的爛氣候（經常嚴寒，少日照易得冬季憂鬱症），這真是不可思議。
而這個又快樂又富有又輕鬆的國家，其產業內容卻是以傳統產業為主。

丹麥賣的第一個是「設計」，他們對家具及傢飾在人體工學及造型美感上，都能有卓越的價值感，
因此價格也是我們台灣同類產品所望塵莫及的。

畜牧應該算是傳統產業中的傳統產業吧！
丹麥最大民間豬肉合作社的年營收可以比名列全球前十大半導體廠的台積電還高。
丹麥農場的每隻豬都植入晶片，利用電腦追蹤身體及進食狀況，依據豬隻需求調製的飼料，
透過自動化傳輸系統送到豬槽。至於豬舍的溼度、溫度、光線等環境條件都是自動控制。
屠宰廠則是透過電子化的探針檢測豬隻身體上的12個部份，計算出脂肪含量、瘦肉率等十多個參數後，
依肉品及豬重自動計價，這些都是丹麥培根與火腿全球市佔率排名第一，
540萬人口的丹麥農業淨輸出排名第八，背後的重要原因。當然，這些畜牧業的自動化設備也同時行銷全球。

台灣的農業向來也有「精緻」的美譽，但恐怕在高科技技術的使用上，和丹麥相較，
我們還有很大的進步空間等著工程師來填補。想想看，如果台灣能以美味、潔淨、口感佳的食品進攻大陸，
光是拿下其M型社會前3%的市場，台灣就有多少錢可以賺？對大陸這個地方，我們不但有地利之便，
也有品牌優勢（大陸人視台製的PC元件為高檔貨），機會真是不錯。

其實現代社會收入結構M型化也是傳統產業可以創新及科技化的主因之ㄧ。
以前誰會去穿一雙數萬元的鞋子？去騎一台數十萬元的自行車？用一套數十萬的球具？
買一台上百萬的機車？聽一套數百萬元級的類比音響？甚至建一個造價千萬的家庭劇院？
這些產品的利潤絕對可觀，這樣的市場也替傳統產業高科技化所需的成本找到來路，
也讓我們工程師的創意有更大揮灑空間。

台灣電子業的發展狀況其實是很令人憂心的。面對韓國及中共等國家的前後夾擊，
台灣電子業的因應之道不是研發新技術而是兼併其他台灣廠的既有市場。
過去主機板之光的華碩就是個範例，華碩現在由筆電、光碟機、液晶電視一路做到數位音響，
甚至連機殼它都要撿來做。液晶電視賣的是日系的價格，品質倒是維持台灣的水準。
數位音響中的一張音效卡可以叫價到近萬元，但我覺得買這張卡的人是傻瓜，
因為歐美及日本的高階音效卡比他們的卡更好而且更便宜。
簡單來講，不肯投資研發使得他們的產品既無特色也找不到訴求，市場佈局真是沒有章法。
不過，我還是要強調，和台灣其他的電子業廠商來比，華碩還算是好的呢！

其實，長久以來，以代工起家的台灣電子業已經養成急功近利的壞習慣，
所有的產品都是在訂單指日可待的情況下才願意投資。
投資之後，所有的工作重點都落在如何讓產品在「堪用」的情況下持續的cost down。
這有點像早期台灣的建築業，蓋房子的重點就在如何在房子不倒的前提下盡量的偷工減料。
至於碰到地震怎麼辦？無所謂啦！反正到時候住房子蓋房子的都會被壓死。

這幾年，台灣的電子業又養成了新的壞習慣：刻薄員工。
在產業外移大陸及越南等國家，嚐到人工便宜的甜頭，就覺得台灣的人事成本太貴，
於是工程師的工時已經幾乎到了天天半天班的地步（每天上班12小時或以上的半天班），
現在又來員工分紅費用化，美其名讓利潤回饋投資者，其實真正肥到的是大股東。

我們當然比大陸、越南的工程師貴，可是大老闆們不應該叫我們做這些低收入地區工程師能做的事，
他們應該多利用我們的創意與思考上的靈活度，投入高附加價值的產業。
如果大老闆們不肯投資研發，只把我們當成高級技工，然後再減少我們的實質收入，這難道不刻薄嗎？

沒錯，就業市場就是願打願挨的市場，只是在挨打的代價已益發不值得的時候，我們就應該張大眼睛往外看了。我並不天真的就以為台灣的傳統產業完全沒有電子業的上述問題。
不過，目前的狀況應該是幾乎所有電子業的老闆都在向最賺錢的郭老闆看齊，他們的商業模式幾乎是完全同質。
相形之下，傳統產業的經營模式還多元化些，認真尋找，說不定同學們還真的會看到一些好機會。

舉例而言，台灣的自行車已經有世界級的品牌，台灣的嬰兒車也擁有全球第一的市佔率，
到彰化的玻璃博物館看看，就知道台灣的玻璃製造技術有多傲人，
台灣的旅行箱、遊艇也早已打入頂級消費的市場，相關專利也是多的嚇人，
你知道PRADA這種頂級服飾得拉鍊是誰做的嗎？這兒存在了許多優秀又有前瞻性的工作機會。

目前科技系所畢業生的平均工作機會絕對大於一（我手上的資料是1.2到2），
中字輩大學的學生機會一定更好。因此，各位同學絕對有機會找到能讓員工正常上下班，
而且肯投資研發，讓工程師發揮創意的優質傳統產業。就算是第一份工作不理想，
第二、第三份工作找到理想職務的機會一定會愈來愈好。
也說不定，這些傳統產業有能力因高科技化，產生驚人的爆發力。那時候，財務上的報酬就算是額外的獎金了。

不久之前，有家跨國企管顧問公司公佈了各國員工的工作效率比較資料，
結果顯示，工時超長的日本人工作效率最低。我手上的資料也顯示，
台灣的每週工時僅次於香港與印度，是全球第三長。工時長又沒效率值得嗎？
相形之下，丹麥每週工時才37小時（一週五天的話，每天才不到7小時），
國民所得卻是全球最高的水準，難道我們台灣人真那麼笨嗎？

寫這篇文章最大的原因是希望大家不必再過沒有自己、沒有家庭的生活，
能有陪著孩子成長、同時兼顧休閒與工作的生活。
因為這才是對自己、對家庭、對社會、甚至對公司真正有益的生活方式。
升學考試已經嚴重剝奪了我們青少年的時光，
真不希望職場的壓力再把大家青壯年的歲月犧牲掉，
難道我們一生只是為了那幾年短短的退休生活能衣食無缺而終日奔忙嗎？

畢業後去那裡-電子還是傳統產業

2008-04-29T21:02:00.000-07:00

最近剛好回學校一趟，拜會教授之外，順便請益一些做人做事的道理(好沉重…T_T);
恰巧發現教授也有一個部落格在Google，索性就直接把教授的部落格加人∞-Net
(簡而言之，就是無限大符號加上Net=無限大網路，這個網路正是助我組成人生夢想的重要架構;
∞-是我理想中，工作室的名稱)

在教授的部落格中發現這樣一篇文章在探討”電子產業”和”傳統產業”;
頓時，腦中浮現出這樣一個問題-“釀造、行銷葡萄酒是傳統產業還是現代產業?”

或許支持舊世界釀酒法的人會覺得-”葡萄酒業是傳統產業”，
但我不這麼想;就葡萄生長、釀造的過程而言，氣候占了很重要的因素。
然而，人類不會影響氣候嗎?別做夢!溫室效應這麼嚴重，是誰造成的~
(不要把責任都推到工程師頭上，想想看都是誰在用這些東西;
看外國影片常會聽到這麼一句話:「槍不會殺人、而是人會殺人」…因該沒記錯!);
另外，能讓葡萄酒在台灣這樣的環境活下去，科技貢獻不少吧!所以說囉，葡萄酒還是受現代科技影響不淺。

被冠上”傳統”這名詞，不過是它發展的歷史和其它產業相比較久遠點罷了!
若有人總是以”時間”來看待事物的定位，或許是”倚老賣老”的心態作祟吧!
相對地，若有人因此把所謂”傳統”的事物視為”過氣”產物，那可大錯特錯!
比方說，已有介紹酒品晶片的發明問世
(把一發聲晶片貼在酒上，錄下關於此葡萄酒的種種資訊，並於顧客在選購葡萄酒時，自動作簡介);
當然Rainman也有想過，若是可以把”全像術”運用在酒瓶上，
說不定林裕森老師的著作-「酒瓶裡的風景」，真的不是夢!

請看文章中用紫色highlight起來的地方(主要在談”服務品質”)，能提供什麼給顧客?
這很重要，現網路、資訊如此發達，加上大家都愈來愈會精打細算，
說實在的對提供服務者本身，還真是一大挑戰!您能提供怎樣的服務，顧客都會銘記在心頭。

老話一句，不是國外的月亮比較圓，而是自已不爭氣

(以下文章轉載於”嚴成文的想法”）

畢業後去那裡-電子還是傳統產業?

過去的十數年，我們都鼓勵也試著幫助我們的學生進入電子產業。股票夢的驅使下，我們的同學也確實嚮往電子產業。事實上，過去近二十年我所擔任過指導教授的研究生們，也大部分都任職於各大上市上櫃的電子公司。令我們感到高興且驕傲的是，這些學長們都成為社會中堅，有朝一日也許會變成國家的棟樑。但是，最近我發現情況有所不同，傳統產業的機會似乎漸漸打開，值得大家注意。以下，我先說明幾個重要的變化：

首先，得注意的轉捩點是台灣科技公司將過去發放股票的制度改成「員工分紅費用化」。股票發財夢已不存在，取而代之的是有限的薪資調整。過去每天晚上不到九、十點不敢下班，加班沒有加班費，過著不是人的生活，目的就是為了拼股票，看能不能用十幾年青春的全部來換取到四十幾歲的提早退休。股票分不到，那為什麼我們還要做這麼大的犧牲？

第二，代工文化掛帥的狀況下，台灣的電子產業已經愈來愈沒有高科技的味道。為了節省財務和時間的成本，台灣的電子產業愈來愈不敢在嘗試錯誤中創新。在設計及製造的過程中，作風甚至比許多傳統產業更加保守。在這種缺乏創意的環境中工作，我們能多快樂？

第三，台灣的電子產業附加價值持續下探，已經到了薄利都未必多銷的地步。所以只好外移產業或把一個工程師當成兩、三人用。這種情況看不出有改善的跡象，因為大老闆都還不肯投資R&D，附加價值也就無從創造。

第四，為了不斷刺激消費者的購買慾，電子產品不斷的在為推陳出新而推陳出新，隨之而來的就是產品規格不斷進行未必有意義的世代交替，最後的結果就是累死工程師，讓工程師不管是在體能或專業能力上都很難撐過40歲。天啊！那我40歲以後如何維生？

整理上列各點，我們發現台灣電子產業的工程師其實只是工時長、創意發揮空間小、專業壽命短而且幾無生活品質可言的高級技工而已。說技工還真的不誇張，有的半導體廠就是叫一流國立大學畢業的工程師洗機台、顧機器而已。在過去，為了錢這一切都也許還有妥協的空間，如今錢景日益黯淡，大家在生涯規劃上恐怕不能再和十年、二十年前的學長姐一樣了。

相形之下，傳統產業的員工通常上下班時間都較正常，職場生命也因對員工經驗的倚重而較長。今日的傳統產業之所以開始看好其關鍵原因就在「傳統產業高科技化」的這個可能性。其中最早出現的成功事例就是金融業的資訊科技化，雖然金融業的產品及服務內容都很繁瑣，但由於它們都具有高度的規則性，故非常適合以電腦處理，結果不但是傳統的金融工作項目在處理效率上大幅提高，資訊科技更使金融業有能力創造及操作新的金融產品及服務方式，營收也因此有了跳躍性的成長。

當然，金融業的財力也讓他們有能力由電子產業手中搶到一群資訊工程師為其服務。反過來說，當員工分紅費用化造成股票發財難以再現之後，我們預期會有更多的工程師往傳統產業移動。

傳統產業，尤其是台灣的傳統產業，其大好機會開始出現的另一個原因是中國大陸、印度等國家崛起。隨著生活的改善，這些地區二、三十億的人口對傳統產業產品的質與量的需求有爆發性的成長，中間自然蘊藏著無窮商機。

過去由於技術層次不高，傳統產業多由在地廠商所壟斷。但跨國企業在其科技化經營能力的加持下，早已打破這個多年不變的格局。看看台灣的7-11及Starbuck如何在台灣攻城掠地，更別提麥當勞及必勝客如何在台灣創造營收。更重要的是:這些傢伙的毛利絕對比鴻海的5%好很多。

我當然不是鼓勵大家去賣咖啡或漢堡，不過大家應該都也可以看到這些企業在與在地業者的競爭中，可不是用微利價格取勝。服務品質是可以跨國界的，因此台灣包括服務業在內的傳統產業揮軍大陸是大有可為的。可是，在開拓這種機會的過程中，擁有高科技訓練背景的我們，到底能做些什麼？

丹麥是我最喜歡的實例，丹麥國民所得全球排名第七，是台灣的4.7倍，每週工作時數37小時（學長們，你的工作時數要不要乘2啊？）。和台灣一樣缺乏天然資源，土地面積4.3萬平方公里，也只比台灣略大一點點，但在「世界快樂地圖報告」中，丹麥的快樂指數在全球187個國家中排名第一，如果考慮到丹麥的爛氣候（經常嚴寒，少日照易得冬季憂鬱症），這真是不可思議。而這個又快樂又富有又輕鬆的國家，其產業內容卻是以傳統產業為主。

丹麥賣的第一個是「設計」，他們對家具及傢飾在人體工學及造型美感上，都能有卓越的價值感，因此價格也是我們台灣同類產品所望塵莫及的。

畜牧應該算是傳統產業中的傳統產業吧！丹麥最大民間豬肉合作社的年營收可以比名列全球前十大半導體廠的台積電還高。丹麥農場的每隻豬都植入晶片，利用電腦追蹤身體及進食狀況，依據豬隻需求調製的飼料，透過自動化傳輸系統送到豬槽。至於豬舍的溼度、溫度、光線等環境條件都是自動控制。屠宰廠則是透過電子化的探針檢測豬隻身體上的12個部份，計算出脂肪含量、瘦肉率等十多個參數後，依肉品及豬重自動計價，這些都是丹麥培根與火腿全球市佔率排名第一，540萬人口的丹麥農業淨輸出排名第八，背後的重要原因。當然，這些畜牧業的自動化設備也同時行銷全球。

台灣的農業向來也有「精緻」的美譽，但恐怕在高科技技術的使用上，和丹麥相較，我們還有很大的進步空間等著工程師來填補。想想看，如果台灣能以美味、潔淨、口感佳的食品進攻大陸，光是拿下其M型社會前3%的市場，台灣就有多少錢可以賺？對大陸這個地方，我們不但有地利之便，也有品牌優勢（大陸人視台製的PC元件為高檔貨），機會真是不錯。

其實現代社會收入結構M型化也是傳統產業可以創新及科技化的主因之ㄧ。以前誰會去穿一雙數萬元的鞋子？去騎一台數十萬元的自行車？用一套數十萬的球具？買一台上百萬的機車？聽一套數百萬元級的類比音響？甚至建一個造價千萬的家庭劇院？這些產品的利潤絕對可觀，這樣的市場也替傳統產業高科技化所需的成本找到來路，也讓我們工程師的創意有更大揮灑空間。

台灣電子業的發展狀況其實是很令人憂心的。面對韓國及中共等國家的前後夾擊，台灣電子業的因應之道不是研發新技術而是兼併其他台灣廠的既有市場。過去主機板之光的華碩就是個範例，華碩現在由筆電、光碟機、液晶電視一路做到數位音響，甚至連機殼它都要撿來做。液晶電視賣的是日系的價格，品質倒是維持台灣的水準。數位音響中的一張音效卡可以叫價到近萬元，但我覺得買這張卡的人是傻瓜，因為歐美及日本的高階音效卡比他們的卡更好而且更便宜。簡單來講，不肯投資研發使得他們的產品既無特色也找不到訴求，市場佈局真是沒有章法。不過，我還是要強調，和台灣其他的電子業廠商來比，華碩還算是好的呢！

其實，長久以來，以代工起家的台灣電子業已經養成急功近利的壞習慣，所有的產品都是在訂單指日可待的情況下才願意投資。投資之後，所有的工作重點都落在如何讓產品在「堪用」的情況下持續的cost down。這有點像早期台灣的建築業，蓋房子的重點就在如何在房子不倒的前提下盡量的偷工減料。至於碰到地震怎麼辦？無所謂啦！反正到時候住房子蓋房子的都會被壓死。

這幾年，台灣的電子業又養成了新的壞習慣：刻薄員工。在產業外移大陸及越南等國家，嚐到人工便宜的甜頭，就覺得台灣的人事成本太貴，於是工程師的工時已經幾乎到了天天半天班的地步（每天上班12小時或以上的半天班），現在又來員工分紅費用化，美其名讓利潤回饋投資者，其實真正肥到的是大股東。

我們當然比大陸、越南的工程師貴，可是大老闆們不應該叫我們做這些低收入地區工程師能做的事，他們應該多利用我們的創意與思考上的靈活度，投入高附加價值的產業。如果大老闆們不肯投資研發，只把我們當成高級技工，然後再減少我們的實質收入，這難道不刻薄嗎？

沒錯，就業市場就是願打願挨的市場，只是在挨打的代價已益發不值得的時候，我們就應該張大眼睛往外看了。我並不天真的就以為台灣的傳統產業完全沒有電子業的上述問題。不過，目前的狀況應該是幾乎所有電子業的老闆都在向最賺錢的郭老闆看齊，他們的商業模式幾乎是完全同質。相形之下，傳統產業的經營模式還多元化些，認真尋找，說不定同學們還真的會看到一些好機會。

舉例而言，台灣的自行車已經有世界級的品牌，台灣的嬰兒車也擁有全球第一的市佔率，到彰化的玻璃博物館看看，就知道台灣的玻璃製造技術有多傲人，台灣的旅行箱、遊艇也早已打入頂級消費的市場，相關專利也是多的嚇人，你知道PRADA這種頂級服飾得拉鍊是誰做的嗎？這兒存在了許多優秀又有前瞻性的工作機會。

目前科技系所畢業生的平均工作機會絕對大於一（我手上的資料是1.2到2），中字輩大學的學生機會一定更好。因此，各位同學絕對有機會找到能讓員工正常上下班，而且肯投資研發，讓工程師發揮創意的優質傳統產業。就算是第一份工作不理想，第二、第三份工作找到理想職務的機會一定會愈來愈好。也說不定，這些傳統產業有能力因高科技化，產生驚人的爆發力。那時候，財務上的報酬就算是額外的獎金了。

不久之前，有家跨國企管顧問公司公佈了各國員工的工作效率比較資料，結果顯示，工時超長的日本人工作效率最低。我手上的資料也顯示，台灣的每週工時僅次於香港與印度，是全球第三長。工時長又沒效率值得嗎？相形之下，丹麥每週工時才37小時（一週五天的話，每天才不到7小時），國民所得卻是全球最高的水準，難道我們台灣人真那麼笨嗎？

寫這篇文章最大的原因是希望大家不必再過沒有自己、沒有家庭的生活，能有陪著孩子成長、同時兼顧休閒與工作的生活。因為這才是對自己、對家庭、對社會、甚至對公司真正有益的生活方式。升學考試已經嚴重剝奪了我們青少年的時光，真不希望職場的壓力再把大家青壯年的歲月犧牲掉，難道我們一生只是為了那幾年短短的退休生活能衣食無缺而終日奔忙嗎？

Now, the most important thing I need is..........Guts!

2008-04-29T02:02:00.000-07:00

以下文章轉載於"嚴成文的想法"

在學校待了多年之後，我愈發地覺得，年輕的一代整體而言比我們這一代強許多。
只不過大家都有相對強弱之處，在這裡我想談的是我個人認為現代年輕人最缺乏的一項特質──膽識。
簡單的說，膽識就是膽量與見識，見識讓我們有足夠的遠見看到重大機會之所在，
膽量則讓我們有足夠的勇氣為值得的事放手一搏。

台灣經濟起飛的重大功臣之ㄧ就是許多提著一只007手提箱就敢闖天下的外貿英雄。
當年這些前輩為了找訂單，單槍匹馬到異鄉替台灣的產品開拓外銷之路，
哪怕是落後又傳染病叢生的非洲，還是正在交戰開火的中東，這些勇敢的台灣人照樣往前衝。
我們的國民所得當年能快速成長，他們實在功不可沒。當然，其中有許多人也因而事業有成。
相形之下，現在的年輕人雖肯努力，一個程度也願意吃苦，但幾乎是都不敢冒險去搶新機會。
通常大家比較願意的是循著既定的成功模式（那就是一路唸書，然候進成台清交，最後安穩工作），
慢慢的往上爬。然而，歷史告訴我們；在一個模式被證明可行後，就會有愈來愈多的人來依附這個模式，
這個模式所能得到的報酬就會因多人的瓜分而日漸稀釋，乃至無利可圖，最後賺的都是血汗錢。
可是啊，讀書受教育成為有智慧的我們，不應該只是賺血汗錢吧！
台積電是有膽識的另一典範。在它成立之前，世界上並不存在晶圓代工這個行業，
它的市場與運作模式都無前例可循。但是張宗謀認為勝算已超越風險，所以做過德州儀器副總裁，
也當過工研院院長，位高權重且物質生活已十分優渥的他，雖然可以舒服過日子，卻在當時開創了台積電。
若無膽識，他也不會像今日一樣在世界半導體及台灣經濟發展史上留下無法被人遺忘的名聲與成就。
他替自己創造光輝燦爛的生命，也替台灣創造龐大的財富與健全的產業架構！
現在的年輕人普遍有輸不起的心裡，失敗似乎是變成了生命無法承受之重。
於是，不管是求學、就業、轉業或是生涯規畫，處處都以安穩為主要考量。
不過，當大家都如此時，這條路就變成最擁擠也最沒機會的生命路線，
此時最敢冒險的人的機會反而會因為競爭者寡而相對看好。

其實，學長中也是有膽識俱足的好榜樣。曾經有位中山畢業的林同學主動告訴我他的跳槽計畫。
在經過多年的實務經驗及訓練，也當過中小研發團隊的leader之後，他風聞某公司首次接到nokia的訂單，於是他主動向該公司表示他願意跳槽，條件是這個訂單的project leader要由他擔任。
在雙方順利達成共識後，我猶記得林同學笑著跟我說：「如果我把這個訂單搞砸了，
那我在這家公司也不必混了！」。
我雖然不知道這個訂單的後續狀況，但我認為這一輩子，林同學一定會有個不被搞砸而且值得的人生，我佩服他！

膽識不是莽撞，但No pain, no gain.世界那有一定成功的事，如果有，這種成功就不會有太甜的價值。
只要成功的投資報酬率蓋過風險的可能性，我們大可在年輕的時候放手一搏。
這個搏，不是賭，而是步步為營，時時修正，大膽的向沒有保證卻充滿希望的明天邁進。
更何況，在年輕的時候我們隨時可以再起，由失敗的經驗中所得到的養分，更是無可取代的珍貴。
諸葛亮一生唯謹慎，枉稱中國五千年的天下第一軍師，赤壁之戰後再也沒有膽識開創新局，
終於在三分天下的安穩局面中抱憾一生，天才如他，缺乏膽識之後況且如此，那我們呢？

千里之"Wine"

2008-04-28T00:40:00.000-07:00

“杯緣”如懸崖 “杯中”如滄海我等”酒”歸來

時間被安排演一場意外妳悄然走開

故事在城外 “丹寧”散不開看不清”酒來”

妳”聞”不出來 “果香”不存在是我在感慨

夢醒來是誰在”餐”台把”酒瓶”打開

那薄如蟬翼的”薄酒萊” 經不起誰來拆

我送妳”一罐” 千里之”Wine” “她”無聲黑白

”佳釀”年代 “的確”不該 “太輕率”的”看待”

我送妳”一罐” 天涯之”Wine” “她”是否還在

”酒”聲何來 “年份”難猜用一生去等待

聞淚聲入”淋” 尋”葡”花白只得一行青苔

天在山之”Wine” 雨落”丘”台我兩鬢斑白

聞淚聲入”淋” 尋”葡”花白只得一行青苔

天在山之”Wine” 雨落”丘”台我等妳來

一”瓶”琉璃白透明著塵埃妳無瑕的愛

妳從雨中來詩化了悲哀我淋濕現在

”葡萄” ”園裡”採 “農”行影猶在妳卻不回來

被歲月覆蓋妳說的花開過去成空白

夢醒來是誰在”餐”台把”酒瓶”打開

那薄如蟬翼的”薄酒萊” 經不起誰來拆

我送妳”一罐” 千里之”Wine” “她”無聲黑白

”佳釀”年代 “的確”不該 “太輕率”的”看待”

我送妳”一罐” 天涯之”Wine” “她”是否還在

”酒”聲何來 “年份”難猜用一生

我送妳”一罐” 千里之”Wine” “她”無聲黑白

”佳釀”年代 “的確”不該 “太輕率”的”看待”

我送妳”一罐” 天涯之”Wine” “她”是否還在

”酒”聲何來 “年份”難猜用一生去等待

Rainman

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Superfly 愛をこめて花束を

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隨筆

“傳產”的迷思

畢業後去那裡-電子還是傳統產業

Now, the most important thing I need is..........Guts!

千里之"Wine"

Superfly　愛をこめて花束を