By Patty Fisher
Mercury News
Article Launched: 10/26/2008 01:34:57 PM PDT
Among the intricate needlepoint and colorful quilts on display in History San Jose's exhibit of local women's handicrafts, the white cotton sock seemed oddly out of place.
The sock did not look like a work of art to me. It looked like the socks we buy in packs of six pair and throw away when the heels begin to wear through.
But this sock was special. It was handmade by someone so proud of her work that she discreetly embroidered her initials in white along the cuff:
"J.W. 1869."
"She Made It!" a new exhibit at History Park in San Jose's Kelley Park, is a trip back to a time before copycat shopping malls; before repetitious "ready to wear"; when just about every dress and pair of trousers, every quilt and handkerchief, every basket and baby blanket was handcrafted by women, who were expected to keep their families not only fed but also clothed and comfortable.
Some women, no doubt, saw all the sewing, quilting, weaving and knitting as drudgery. But many delighted in the work and discovered artistic outlets and surprising opportunities to bring beauty to their otherwise drab lives.
Using common materials such as wool yarn, cloth scraps and even human hair, they turned out precious and personal works of art when simple utilitarian pieces would have sufficed.
"Women weren't always allowed to participate in 'fine arts,' so they used functional crafts as a form of creative self-expression," said Sarah Puckitt,
Advertisement
yld_mgr.place_ad_here("adPosBox");
curator of the exhibit.
Thus the hand-embroidered table linens that gave everyday meals a feeling of elegance. The crocheted doilies that kept the upholstery clean but also were lovely to look at.
Although most of those creations were used, reused and handed down until they wore out or were thrown away, many have survived. History San Jose has quite a collection of home crafts donated by local families, and Puckitt said she was delighted to have an opportunity to display them.
Even before I saw the exhibit, I started thinking about what the world would be like if women hadn't felt the need to make their surroundings beautiful, whether by picking flowers for the table or embroidering flowers on the tablecloth.
For centuries, great male artists were revered, their work hung on gallery and museum walls and admired. Meanwhile, women's work such as fine rugs, lace and fabrics were walked on, worn and used.
It's not that their talent wasn't admired. It just wasn't considered art.
Today, our definition of art is broader. We have "wearable art" and "body art" and "land art." If you hang a quilt on the wall, it's art.
The quilt I'd love to hang on my wall was made by the ladies of St. Paul's Methodist Church in the late 19th century. It's a "crazy quilt" made from dozens of different fabric pieces and embellished with chain stitch, daisy stitch and French knots. The more I studied it, the more little touches I saw.
The collection of quilts is a reminder that for women, creating art also was a way of socializing. The average farm wife had no time to go clubbing with her gal pals. But at quilting bees and sewing circles, she could trade gossip, recipes, wisdom and advice while getting her work done.
And then it was her duty — and her pleasure — to pass the skills of stitching, knitting and mending to her daughters.
Back in 1832, a 10-year-old girl named Mary Ann Ives stitched what was probably her first sampler. The spacing and spelling are slightly imperfect, and I can just imagine her mother or grandmother gently pointing out the mistakes. Tears probably were shed. But as the text of the sampler suggests, little Mary Ann was appealing to a higher power to judge her work:
"Jesus permit thy gracious name to stand,
"As the first efforts of an infant's hand."
Imagine her surprise if she knew that one day her first shaky sampler would find its way into a museum.
Contact Patty Fisher at pfisher@mercurynews.com or (408) 920-5852.
If you're going: "She Made It!" is on display at the Leonard & David McKay Gallery at the Pasetta House in History Park, 1650 Senter Road, San Jose. For hours and directions, visit http://www.historysanjose.org/ or call (408) 287-2290.
addthis_pub = 'mngi';
2008年10月27日 星期一
Fisher: Art with quilts, doilies, socks
2008年9月9日 星期二
Sex & Seduction in Sportwear ( From International Herald Tribune)
Sex and seduction in sportswear
Proenza Schouler, Peter Som, Thakoon, Carolina Herrera, Isaac Mizrahi and more
By Suzy Menkes
Published: September 9, 2008
document.writeln('');
NEW YORK: Brooke Shields, in a shapely pantsuit, walked the red carpet at Calvin Klein's 40th birthday bash this week.
It seemed like a giant stride from those ads in which the teenage actress proclaimed that "nothing comes between me and my Calvins." But it was a reminder of the subversive sexuality that the house's founder brought to American sportswear.
Symbolically, all the strong shows of New York Fashion Week are tapping into that same concept: the reinvention of sporty clothes with an undercurrent of hip sensuality. Leaving behind the pretty, girly uptown vibe that has been the New York fashion look since the start of this new millennium, the clothes are stronger, tougher and more deliberately seductive.
The design duo at Proenza Schouler moved from city smart to tough workwear and it made for a fine transition. Overalls, reworked with a bold zipper and with cutaway straps baring the back, sent a sexual charge through clothes that were otherwise big and even baggy. They were also in the spirit of the 1980s, with rounded sleeves tracing the arms like a crescent moon and a sense of oversize controlled by a cinching belt. Veronica Lake hair streaming over one eye and shoes tilted on heels that looked like metallic tools added a provocative touch.
Sexuality is not new to the designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who have toyed with brassieres and corset tops inserted into uptown looks. But this season the combination of sporty fabrics like athletic mesh, in an egg shape above billowing track pants, and the curvy shape of the rounded sleeves gave just that subversive thrust that makes sportswear seem modern.
Multimedia
PhotographsSuzy Menkes on NY Fashion Week» View
Further coverage: New York fashion shows» View
Today in Fashion & Style
Magical Marc Jacobs: Putting on the prairie
Sex and seduction in sportswear
Victoria Beckham's dream
The shoes told the story in Peter Som's fine show: wrapped in a bandage of Hessian straps to give the effect of feet splattered with sand. The footwear underscored a desert theme, taken at a gallop with "Lawrence of Arabia" as inspiration - hence the models with loose hair, wide cuffed shorts, brief skirts wafting in light layers or mid-calf dresses cinched with leather at the waist.
Som's skill came through in the color palette that went from sandy beige through shades of oasis spring water to sky blue and turquoise, then hotted up to the sunset pink that made a subtle suede dress.
"It's sexier than usual," said Som. But this well-thought-out show was never vulgar and expressed a sporty freedom of a modern woman.
"Seduction and fetishism," announced Thakoon Panichgul backstage to define dresses worked with the effect of trussed ribbons and rubbery nylon coats. With an echo chamber of ideas from Lanvin et al., this collection seemed like it was trying too hard. The high points of the Thakoon show came when he played with print, having dancing legs come out of the stamens of a rose, in a neat metaphor for sporty energy and sweet romance.
When Carolina Herrera shows a skinny, streamlined pantsuit in matador red, you know that the feel for sportswear is galloping through fashion. In fact, although she cited the influence of Italian painting and of Russian constructivists, this show seemed more influenced by the Spanish bullring and the designer's South American roots. Think of frills cascading down dresses that all seemed aimed at that familiar totem: the red carpet.
What worked best was the Herrera hallmark: the beautiful blouse, dramatic in black chiffon, with transparent puffy sleeves and worn with high-waist toreador pants in yellow and black print; or pristine as the designer's signature white blouse with black embroidery and a pencil skirt.
Isaac Mizrahi, showing his couture line on a big ballroom stage, knows all about sportswear - from his signature style in the 1980s and because he has been tapped to design for the iconic sportswear house Liz Claiborne.
What came out on the runway was sports couture: a mix of big, light shapes worn with skintight corsets and bicycle pants in eye-popping fluorescent colors. A shocking pink bra was worn boldly under a floaty dress and a ball gown flipped open to show Day-Glo green shorts. The show was endearing in its energy, although there were some clunky dresses heavy with paillettes and others that looked like Snow White dressing for a 1950s prom. Shiny surfaces and modern fabrics made the new Mizrahi seem intriguing.
Genuine sportswear companies are in their element this season. The Y-3 label, with the collaboration of Yohji Yamamoto, hit its target with its graphic play on the famous Adidas stripes for both sexes. While the male might have a bathrobe of a coat in horizontal stripes, a woman's calf-length dress with shifting layers of stripes gave a different effect. From smart sports shoes (with the three signature stripes) to subtle mixes of masculine and feminine (as a tunic with a bow at the back, worn with racing stripe pants), Y-3 is true to its designer's romantic modernist identity.
Diesel Black Gold is a model of how to give a denim company a sharp fashion edge. By playing with fabric, using fine ticking-striped cotton or paint-splash effects, and by experimenting with new shapes, from drop-crotch to harem pants, the clothes looked as modern as the undulating sound waves projected on the backdrop. If helmets recalled last season's Proenza Schouler show and feather vests mirrored Burberry's collection, this Diesel line still has a personal identity that is fresh and hip.
Z-Zegna is a men's line designed to incorporate the luxury and elegance of the Ermenegildo Zegna Italian brand with a more casual and sporty image. By bringing this younger, hipper menswear collection to New York, Zegna is building a wider international identity for the brand.
2008年9月5日 星期五
Wanted: Genius designer
Who will be the Next Big Thing? That's the question that perennially fuels the rave of creativity, stitchery and circus nerves that is New York Fashion Week. It's the tease that attracts the thousands of designers, buyers, editors, photographers, stylists, models, bookers, trend forecasters, sharp-tongued blogosphere sibyls and the strung-out accountants who attempt to ride herd on all of the above to the Bryant Park tents twice a year. It's the dream we all dream of a sartorial Lotto win.
Even with an economy dazed and numbed, the United States remains the world's largest market for fashion, and New York is unquestionably the center of the global fashion image machine. True, consumer pocketbooks seem to be on temporary lockdown. But the assembly line keeps cranking all the same; the maw must be fed.
But who will do it? Cast a seasoned eye across a landscape ornamented with scores of shows during the next nine days (officially Fashion Week runs today through Sept. 12) and what's immediately apparent is that while fashion is healthily supplied with journeymen there is no clear visionary, no obvious genius in sight.
"The business is much too safe," Julie Gilhart, the fashion director of Barney's New York, said last week. "There's just too much money at stake." Thus, we should not expect a season in which designers go out on a limb and propel models down catwalks in get-ups concocted from seaweed or kitchen utensils. (Both have actually happened.) This is not to suggest, as Gilhart also noted, that New York is suffering from talent shortfall — far from it. Among many others, we have the team of Proenza Schouler, with their knack for making middle-of-the-road design seem indie and cool. We have cartoonish pop cultural gadflies like Isaac Mizrahi, and chaste classicists like Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein. We have elder statesman like Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren, who, far from seeming moss-covered and passé, have been more alert to shifts in the cultural marketplace than some who were zygotes when those men first hit professional stride.
We have loopy design theoreticians like threeAsFour, holding up the fort for Downtown Style. And — back from a barkeep hiatus in Majorca that followed his Big Apple flameout—we have Miguel Adrover, the man who captured the imagination of the fashion establishment with clothes made from a recycled mattress and Yankees caps.
Today in Fashion & Style
Still, there is no world-beater. There are no names that suggest clear-cut potential both to reshape fashion and somehow with it the global culture of style. There is no one, to take the obvious example, likely to replace Yves Saint Laurent, who died in June and seemingly took with him not merely a genius for conjuring glamour from whole cloth, but also for draping his designs to suit the mood of his time.
What seems disorienting about this absence is that fashion is no longer a discipline of interest mainly to female consumers and a cult of aesthetes. Like it or not, fashion has become something larger, a viral cultural force that sometimes seems only incidentally concerned with clothes. Cocteau wasn't kidding when he said style is a simple way of saying complicated things — a point the United States Olympic Committee clearly noted (American teams may not have dominated in the medals, but in the parade of nations they killed the competition in jauntily classic Polo Ralph Lauren uniforms), as do politicos. Were the Dead Sea scrolls subjected to more exegesis than Michelle Obama's floral print sheath at the Democratic National Convention in Denver? (Thakoon, by the way.) The voices of the blogosphere say, No.
Yet, contradictory as this may seem, the notion of a Next Big Thing in fashion may itself be culturally discordant. As in film, music and other arts, consumers have wearied of big names and labels. Except on TV, they are bored with diktats, with taste legislated by self-appointed "experts" and with camphor-scented archaisms like "stars."
They have lost the desire to partake of media in hunks: an entire musical album, or a single artist's whole career.
The DIY ethos prevalent among young consumers has led to an overall relaxation of the boundaries of style. Given that a 12-year-old with a MySpace page and access to digital "mood boards" or electronic makeover applications (girltech.com) can become an instant authority on fashion, is there truly a need for the dictators of the front row, the editors who once chose the stars?
"No longer is fashion force-fed to the consumer," said Robert Burke, a former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman who is now a luxury goods consultant. "They don't have to wait for magazines and editors to tell them what they must buy and must have."
Fun as it is to indulge in the game show fantasy retailed by programs like "Project Runway," with its winners and losers and dubious jackpots, it is probably time to face the truth about the In or Out divide, which is that it is subjectively judged and decreed by a posse of Heathers.
"I really never understood the next big thing," said Kim Hastreiter, an editor of Paper magazine. "How can someone be a genius this season and next season they're not?"
She added: "This completely drives me crazy. Everyone can be raving one season about how great a designer is and then the next season they're dumped."
People do not become "un-brilliant," Hastreiter said. "Designers really suffer from this because you get lifted up and put in this place and then someone else comes along and is put in that place and it's never really about the work."
Passionate fandom, the widespread devotion that also helps invest a star with authority, seems quaint today. Every anonymous nobody with a social networking page or a "fun wall" can build a cohort, whether imaginary or virtual. Appended to the snapshots of everyday people and their sartorial innovations on blogs like Scott Schuman's The Sartorialist (thesartorialist.blogspot.com) are kite-tails of commentary from scores or even hundreds of commentators, who hold highly evolved (and occasionally creepy) views about what fashion is and should be.
In a lot of ways, the life and career of Saint Laurent are instructive and also helpful in understanding why it is futile and also probably dumb to sit around waiting for his avatar. "That world is gone," his former partner Pierre Bergé said days before Saint Laurent's death.
By that Bergé meant, as Jill D'Alessandro, an associate curator at the de Young Museum in San Francisco, recently explained, that "fashion was more about artistic and creative output" when Saint Laurent held his first runway show in 1962 than it was about celebrity name-checking and the creation of the latest "It" bag. "He was adapted to his times," D'Alessandro said. "He was someone who wanted to help with social change. The world was also changing a lot then, and he very consciously wanted to be part of that."
The extent to which he succeeded should be clear come November when the de Young presents a full-scale Saint Laurent retrospective.
The film director Jean Renoir once wrote a letter to Ingrid Bergman, motivated by what I am not quite sure, in which he cautioned the actress against falling for the hype axiomatically attached to the next big thing. "The cult of great ideas is dangerous and may destroy the real basis for great achievements, that is the daily, humble work within the framework of a profession," Renoir wrote.
And it's that quote I plan to take with me into the Fashion Week fray, with a hope that the onus of expectation placed on any single designer (even New York's favorite son, Marc Jacobs) will eventually yield to something more flexible, plural and modern, to use a hated fashion term. The next big thing may not be a single person at all but a yeastier and more broadly based network of shared information and connections.
It's an optimistic thought, and none too reasonable, given the financial stakes. But there has to be a role for fashion more interesting than producing a few hype artists whose greatest skill is slinging a dumb It bag off the licorice-whip arm of this season's hot socialite.
"Very few people have this ability to be the great designers and also generate the necessary buzz and excitement," Gilhart of Barneys said. "It's a trap." So formulated around star-creation right now, she added, that the business may actually be "closing out a lot of opportunities for people who are original and good and who actually have something to say."
More Articles in Fashion & Style » A version of this article appeared in print on September 4, 2008, on page G1 of the New York edition.
Roadster by Cartier
A Day in a Life with… Roadster by CARTIER
From name to bottle A classy, sporty convertible, speed and the wind in your hair, plus a shiny, "state-of-the-art" vehicle... That’s what comes to mind when you hear the word Roadster. Familiar to Cartier fans, in the house’s vocabulary it already refers to a watch model, from which several of the design elements were borrowed: the “winding knob” cabochon cap, the play of polished or satin-finished chrome decoration. Another house trademark: the item’s weight – and it is a real heavyweight! Thick, sturdy glass, chrome-sheathed cap and precision mechanism, if you’re looking for a blunt object, look no further! |
|  |
GUERLAIN HOMME by Guerlain
GUERLAIN HOMME by Guerlain
- Created: 2008
- For: Men
- type: Citrus - Aromatic
Resolutely fresh and energetic, Guerlain Homme draws its inspiration from a famous cocktail, the mojito. The ad campaign, signed Jean-Paul Goude shows a ‘primitive’ green-eyed man lapping up water from a source surrounded by wild animals…
2008年8月29日 星期五
Converse One Star For Your Back-to-School Wardrobe
LOS ANGELES, Aug 27, 2008 / FW/ — Preppy meets casual, the Converse One Star Fall 2008 collection offers budding fashionistas contemporary denim, knit dresses, sweaters, graphic tees and outerwear for an irreverent look at a great price.
Together with a vintage, rock n’ roll-inspired accessories line, the pop culture assignation usually associated with Converse and the century old history of the brand that has influenced music, arts, sports and fashion, the Converse One Star brand continues its evolution.
For women, traditionally athletic silhouettes were re-imagined to be more feminine. Fall color palettes and collegiate-themed logos, the preppy urban style is achieved.
The One Star women’s footwear — from houndstooth skimmers and wedge oxfords in berry and taupe, to metallic Skidgrip® footwear styles and satin ballet skimmers in fuchsia and black proposes a youthful rock & roll look.
For men, rugby-striped shirting and military jackets evoke this season’s One Star style of prep school and punk rock. Using deep green, navy and red, accented with vintage gold and blue, the look is uniquely One Star and effortlessly stylish.
The fall One Star footwear collection for men includes retro skate and soccer shoes, as well as a suede hi-top-style shoe.
The Converse One Star fall collection also marks the debut of vintage-inspired, versatile accessories for men and women. Sold exclusively at Target, the newest addition to the One Star roster includes canvas totes, striped neck scarves and bowler bags for every day.
Converse One Star Collection is available at select Target stores nationwide and at www.target.com beginning August.
Essential essences
White flowers… for him and her
2007’s star flower was iris. No one flower has taken this year’s crown, but jasmine and white flowers are present in many of the latest scents. Yves Rocher introduced a gentle, slightly fruity jasmine christened Tendre Jasmin and Bulgari presents Jasmin Noir, a sweeter, woodsier floral. New for women from Givenchy, Absolutely Irresistible features, not rose like Very Irresistible, but – you guessed it – jasmine. A jasmine garbed in orange blossom and fruity and woodsy notes. White flowers are also at the heart of Diesel’s new perfume, Fuel for Life UNLIMITED, presented as a ‘bouquet of white flowers (…) wrapped in licorice’ and fruity notes. It boasts three white flowers: Casablanca lily, tuberose and jasmine. Another white flower – albeit a more imaginary one – is unveiled in the packaging and the ad campaign for Kenzo’s new men’s scent, Kenzo Power. After Dior (Fahrenheit 32, Dior Homme) and Gaultier (Fleur du Mâle), Kenzo is also exploring the floral register for men with Kenzo Power. Garbed in spicy and woody notes, the whole is nevertheless quite floral for a men’s scent. Unusual on men, but why shouldn’t women wear it too?
Another trendy flower this season: classic violet. Women will find it in Love in Black (Creed) and Féerie (Van Cleef), and men can get a hint of it in Lalique White.
Gourmet fusions
Feel like a tequila sunrise or a mojito? Good timing, because fragrances in the gourmet register are in. Gaultier’s Ma Dame, a light floral, has a bright, Tequila Sunrise-style splash of grenadine syrup and tart orange. There’s a similar fusion-cocktail concept happening at Guerlain, with Guerlain Homme, a men’s scent blending lime and fresh mint, mojito-style. The overdose of mint in Roadster, Cartier’s new fragrance for men, is softened with sweet, lightly vanilla notes, somewhat reminiscent of an After Eight after-dinner mint. Looking at more men’s scents: Emporio Armani Diamonds’ energizing trail is warmed up with cocoa, and in Givenchy’s Play, the opening wood-citrus-coffee blossom blend evokes an imaginary rhubarb-wood sensation. For more gourmet experiences: an exotic plum note blends with burnt amber and white flowers in Calvin Klein’s latest, Secret Obsession. And for gourmets of the gourmand, Reminiscence is completing their Les Notes Gourmandes collection with 2 new notes, including Si Do. The bottle’s ‘violet-macaroon’ hue reveals a fragrance weaving together ambrette, carrot and woodsy-floral notes.
Women’s Woods
The trend towards woodsy scents for women that started some time ago (and was most noticeable in 2007, with Saint Laurent’s elle) isn’t over yet. Women love flowers, obviously, but woodsy notes had clearly been set aside for too long. So in the U.S., Estée Lauder has left the floral register for a major woodsy scent, Sensuous. Fashion designer Tom Ford has also decided to launch a woodsy perfume, White Patchouli, with bergamot, ambrette seed and white flowers for the white facet. Patchouli is here to stay. Christian Lacroix presents C’est La Fête Patchouli, and Esteban introduces Patchouli eau de toilette. Lancôme is also exploring a woodsy register, with their woodsy-floral, Magnifique. It weaves rose, the brand’s significant flower, with woodsy notes of vetiver and sandalwood, and the slightly smoky notes of nagarmota (a variety of papyrus from India).
One more thing: the return of citrus signatures
First niche brands went into citrus notes in a big way, and now the big names are getting in on the act, too. Dior has introduced Dior Homme Sport, distinctly dominated by citrus, and even Guerlain is temporarily leaving their ‘Guerlinade’ register with a citrus scent. Though spicier and muskier, Lalique White is a citrus scent too.
Fragrance Collection 08 - 09
Fragrance Collection 08 - 09
Gold and diamonds, trails of white flowers, black & white, wood for women, grenadine and mojito… osMoz decrypts this falls fragrant trends for you. A special report cahier presented like a trend book.
By Nicolas Olczyk
… What’s new?
Like 2007, fall 2008 is going to be full of new launches. Certain fragrances came out this summer so that they’re already in the starting blocks as summer winds down and people come back from the beach. Like last year, there are lots of new hopefuls, but this year, it looks like men have attracted the lion’s share of brands’ attention. Indeed, new men’s scents can be found not only from Prada, Cartier, Dior and Paco Rabanne, but also Armani, Givenchy, Guerlain ou Kenzo.
When it comes to faces, they’re rolling out the red carpet. Justin Timberlake is representing the new Givenchy, Calvin Klein recruited the curvaceous Eva Mendes, Jude Law signed on with Dior, Lancôme called upon actress Anne Hathaway. And with diva Beyoncé representing the women’s version, Giorgio Armani chose young actor Josh Hartnett for the men’s version of Emporio Armani Diamonds…
As for models, we can’t help noticing that British model Agyness Deyn is fragrance’s new It girl. This spring Burberry chose to personify The Beat, and now she is the muse of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s latest perfume, Ma Dame this fall. In both cases, she incarnates a hip young woman with an off-beat look.
Fans of beautiful bottles will be thrilled. Rare and expensive, the new Acqua di Parma fragrance is an old-school, fine-fragrance chypre presented in a silk-lined box. Another charmer, the bottle for Van Cleef & Arpels’s Féerie is like a sapphire with Tinkerbell perched on top. The stunningly modern bottle of Cartier’s new men’s scent, Roadster, evokes the watch of the same name. As for Lalique, the brand is launching a fragrance extract for men in a crystal bottle for their new fragrance, Lalique White.
MAN by Calvin Klein
MAN by Calvin Klein
- Created: 2007
- For: Men
- type: Woody - Spicy
MAN perfectly expresses Calvin Klein’s cutting edge minimalism and sexy style. MAN is the essence of the modern man in a signature fragrance. A crisp spicy woody scent, defined by its distinctly masculine aura and artisanal craftsmanship.
2008年8月28日 星期四
Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein
Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein
- Created: 2008
- For: Women
- type: Oriental - Floral
Sensuality, fantasies and… secret obsessions
Sensuality, fantasies and… secret obsessions
‘Between love and madness lies… obsession’: that was the starting point for Secret Obsession. Over 20 years ago, the Obsession ad made a huge stir. Secret Obsession’s is also attracting a lot of attention. It features the actress Eva Mendes in a provocatively sensual, almost sexual attitude. More floral than the original Obsession, Secret Obsession has conserved the original’s oriental character and the promise of an aphrodisiac love-potion.
The American designer continues his exploration of freshness with the launch of 2 new essences in his Splash collection. Planned for an autumn release
The American designer continues his exploration of freshness with the launch of 2 new essences in his Splash collection. Planned for an autumn release, they focus on fig and gardenia, after this spring’s grapefruit, pear and basil scents. Described as an aquatic floral, Gardenia was designed by Jean-Claude Delville. Fig is a green, citrussy and spicy essence by Yann Vasnier. Eaux de toilette 10 oz., recommended retail price: €61.
2008年8月23日 星期六
Paris in Motion
Alexis Mabille: In his program notes Alexis Mabille claimed to be dressing a gaggle of fun-loving, unconventional characters who populate an artsy alternative school. He does in fact offer an alternative take on haute couture, one that banishes stuffiness and staid propriety in favor of an attitude that's fresh, young and sportif. It's a vision in which couture and ready-to-wear comingle proudly, blissfully mindless of any old-fashioned fashion caste system. Yet as for that unconventional claim, that's where Mabille really makes hay or HEY. In truth, he doesn't reject convention; he embraces it, starting with traditional notions of French chic. His runway ran rampant with it. He just expresses it with moments of willful irreverence. Take a singular idea, the drop-waist shirtdress. He rendered it cut lean and dark, with pleated schoolgirl propriety, in an artsy black sack rendition, and as an out-there clownish pink polo. He tinkered as well with tuxedo and military motifs, while showing fabulous pants both slouchy and lean, and what may be the only young-looking caftan this side of a Talitha Getty photo. In short, Mabille seems to be just what couture needs: a young, informed talent who doesn't let his deep respect for the milieu get in the way of a good look.Anne Valérie Hash: With an offering of 16 outfits, Anne Valérie Hash boiled down her haute vision to a concise essence that the designer said was inspired by the "vegetal realm." It translated into some very pretty fare, especially a dress with a petal-like sleeve, and delicate sculptural pleating effects on crepe dresses that subtly evoked the folds on a flower. Equally fetching was a dress of translucent lace and organza panels. Hash's talent lies in making clothes with sensual flair. A long black dress with a plunging neckline was a case in point — it looked sexy without being vulgar. Hash added a bit of drama to the mix with oversize jewelry from Naomi Filmer. But in the couture world of big effects and theatrical gestures, Hash's arty approach, though quite enchanting, felt a bit timid.Stéphane Rolland: Now in his third solo season, Stéphane Rolland has established a look based on spangles and flounces tempered with "Dynasty"-style glamour. This couture outing, he explored volume, massed sequins on the shoulders of a dress or a jacket and even a Goth moment done up with more sequins. It was more flash than dash.
Giorgio Armani's New York Tour
Looking no worse for wear after the Costume Institute gala at the Met, the designer did a question-and-answer session at the Fashion Institute of Technology early in the day, then headed uptown to the Hearst Tower, where the Couture Council of The Museum at FIT gave him the first Couture Council Award for Global Fashion Leadership. When he and Glenn Close ascended the escalator, dozens of black-clad men and women broke into applause. A Swarovski-sponsored luncheon hosted by Harper's Bazaar and its editor in chief, Glenda Bailey, attracted the likes of Sarah Larson, Eugenia Silva and Ziyi Zhang.
"I actually made the worst-dressed list before I met Mr. Armani," Close admitted.
Against the backdrop of the skyline, Armani couldn't help but show his appreciation for Manhattan. "It is a very beautiful city, and I found it even more beautiful this time," he said.
As he prepared for his return to Milan later that afternoon after his three-day stopover in New York and a vacation in Antigua, he was left with one question: "I would like to ask Nadja Swarovski how I can get through security with this?" Armani joked, referring to the award.
At FIT, students greeted him dressed in black T-shirts with "I Met Giorgio Armani" on the front and "at FIT" on the back.
The designer told the group, "You must not take advantage of people who are willing to live off fashion. Keep in mind that the goal of your product is the same goal I have had for so many years — to improve people's image through fashion. You must remember that fashion serves a purpose: to make people feel more attractive when they get up in the morning, get dressed and look at themselves in the mirror."
Before Armani left, the students gave him a T-shirt that read, "I Met the Students at FIT."
But Armani's trip to New York was as much business as pleasure. After touring the site of his upcoming Fifth Avenue flagship Sunday, on Monday he drew a crowd of 500 to Saks Fifth Avenue for a signing of Roger Hutchings' book, "Armani Backstage." "We were originally scheduled to have Armani back on 9/11, but we haven't had him since, so to have him in our flagship store is a very special event," said Stephen I. Sadove, Saks' chairman and chief executive officer. The Armani products are in 38 Saks doors.
"This is a significant step up in Giorgio Armani's beauty business development," said Laurent Attal, president and ceo of L'Oréal USA. "The business has a lot of potential in the U.S."
2008年8月22日 星期五
Serge Noire by Serge Lutens
Serge Noire by Serge Lutens
- Created: 2008
- For: Men
- type: Oriental - Woody
‘From the phoenix – that mythical bird (…) rising from its ashes – is born a timeless, land-less scent, from neither here nor there,’ Serge Lutens tells us. This ‘gray oriental’ for him or her is like ‘the memory of the wind suggesting a shape,’ ‘a future silhouette.’ This garb of black cloth (serge is a fabric) is also a play on the designer’s first name.
2008年8月20日 星期三
Jean Paul Knott: Synergy Between Fashion & Art
PARIS, Aug 19, 2008 / FW/ — Known for his sensitiveness to quality, originality and exclusivity, Jean Paul Knott has found synergy between fashion and art.
Honing his skills under the tutelage of Yves Saint Laurent for 12 years, Jean Paul Knott launched his own label ‘JEANPAULKNOTT’ in 2000 in Brussels. Though his life in fashion had taken him to Milan and Paris, there was never a time when Jean-Paul put it on the shelf. He never stopped developing it.
In 2001, he was named Artistic Director for Krizia; in 2002 he designed costumes for Maurice Bejard Ballet, and in 2003 he started working as Creative Director for Louis Feraud Paris.
The next two years, 2004 and 2005, Jean-Paul concentrated in his own label, developing an underwear line and an accessories line under JEANPAULKNOTT. He was also commissioned to design rooms at the Royal Windsor Hotel in Brussels.
To Jean-Paul, fashion is not just about clothes. It is also art. So, in 2006, he launched his first concept gallery in Brussels. As expected it is dedicated to clothes, fashion and art.
[SARA CONDE]
JEANPAULKNOTT
Head Office
Block Knott Gallery
Kanal 20
bd Barthelemy 20
1000 Brussels
BELGIUM
Tel: +32 (0) 2 514 18 35
Fax: +32 (0) 2 511 24 35
Website: www.jeanpaulknott.com
BYOB Takes A New Meaning
LOS ANGELES, Aug 19, 2008 / FW/ — Pretty soon, we won’t be hearing that familiar question, ‘paper or plastic?’ Whether its due to social responsibility or not, fashionistas will choose BYOB – Bring Your Own Bag – to the grocery store with all good looking satchels and totes available in the market today.
Paraphrasing a very popular 1960s slogan, Martha Lee adopted the mantra ‘MAKE LOVE NOT TRASH’ putting them on shopping bags that can double as messenger bags at times.
Very eco-conscious herself, Martha Lee made sure that each bag is conscientiously crafted with all natural, non-toxic materials. Part of fulfilling its social responsibility, Make Love Not Trash will work with a new charity each year in an effort to raise awareness for their cause.
This year, the company has chosen to support THE LEEZA GIBBONS MEMORY FOUNDATION, a charity organization fully dedicated to Alzheimer’s disease.
KENZO POWER
KENZO POWER by Kenzo
- Created: 2008
- For: Men
- type: Woody - Floral musk
A streamlined, graphically designed flower for men
A men’s fragrance with a streamlined aesthetic, Kenzo Power echoes Kenzo Flower, the brand’s best-selling fragrance for women. Indeed, the two scents share a flower motif on the bottle. But here, the flower is more subtle and discreet, like a watermark. This reflects the fragrance, which is also floral… but with an ‘abstract florality’. The shape of the bottle is reminiscent of a Japanese sake bottle.
PLAY by Givenchy
PLAY by Givenchy
- Created: 2008
- For: Men
- type: Woody - Spicy
Activating Play means getting away from the ordinary, discovering new visual, tactile and fragrant sensations. It means getting the buzz, sharing your experiences and emotions everywhere and all the time in a multimedia world of high-tech nomads. Play, a timelessly modern scent for men, plays off of this image with its graphic MP3-player bottle. Seduction, freedom, hyper-sensorialism, hyper-connectivity, Play is incarnated by singer / producer / actor / sex symbol Justin Timberlake, the face of the fragrance.
2008年8月19日 星期二
JLO gets into men
JLO gets into men
Date: 08.20.2008
Six months after giving birth to twins, Jennifer Lopez is back to work. After her perfumes for women only, Jennifer Lopez is now also thinking of men. In September, she’ll be launching her first men’s scent, christened deseo for men, a woody aromatic warmed up with amber. It will follow up on the success of deseo, an exotic woodsy-floral whose name means ‘desire’. Both fragrances will be available in several countries, including the USA, of course. For more info: www.jenniferlopezbeauty.com
Toyko hones its vintage clothing market
TOKYO: The story about vintage clothes in Tokyo goes like this: A Hollywood actress, after a successful crash diet, sold her size 6 wardrobe to a thrift shop in Santa Monica. Three months later she came to Tokyo to promote her latest movie and one afternoon wandered into one of the city's landmark vintage clothing shops, called Santa Monica. What should she find there but her own shorts and several party dresses, unobtrusively displayed under a sign that read: "Santa Monica Style."
The story is credible for the simple reason that Tokyo has now reached a point where it's safe to call it Planet Vintage. Among the 400-plus shops scattered over the city, myths like this abound.
The good news is that it's not all rumor and folklore - according to a fashion stylist, Keiko Okura, "the quality of Tokyo vintage products are unmatched."
Okura, who habitually combs the racks of thrift shops to collect extra items for fashion shoots, said, "Nowadays, even in Paris and London it's no rare thing to walk into a vintage clothing store and come out disappointed. But in Tokyo, where the vintage market is fiercely competitive and the customers knowledgeable, it's always a challenge to go in there and see what's going on, check out what other people are wearing."
Vintage clothing first took hold in Tokyo during the postwar years - young men, eager to emulate the ways of American GIs striding through the city wearing their confidence like medals, began buying U.S. military clothing on the black market.
Multimedia
Today in Fashion & Style
After the Tokyo Olympics in 1964, the demand for American casual soared - and in 1966 a store called Chicago opened its doors to a Levis-hungry public, the first bona fide vintage shop Tokyo had ever seen and now the most trusted name in the business. According to a co-director, Tsutomu Iizuka, "customers coming in were all asking for jeans and flannel shirts. Back then, no one had the means or distribution network to bring these in, so we shifted our focus from imported merchandise to used and vintage."
Chicago now has five outlets in Japan and operates a warehouse in St. Louis, Missouri. At its main store in Harajuku, Tokyo, old clothes are displayed like gallery pieces: an embroidered circular skirt from Guatemala, 1960s surfer shirts from Maui, natty suspender belts from Japan, circa 1957.
Some vintage enthusiasts say it's not enough anymore merely to hunt and purchase. Professional buyers like Shinichi Kotani, who travels Europe and South America for five vintage shops, said, "The problem has always been with size. The fact is, clothes made overseas are just too large for the Japanese body."
This is where the "remake" comes in.
The successful pioneer company in this field is called Taos, which collaborates with a vintage wholesale retailer. Taos remakes and refashions old clothes in a way that makes them undistinguishable from new. Shirts are taken apart and sewn together again, re-emerging with a tighter, more fashionable silhouette. A pair of woolen pants may turn into a vest, a chef's shirt into a sleeveless summer blouse. A linen bed sheet becomes a button-down shirt. Almost all the work is done by hand. The end-product bears the Taos tag and is sold for a higher price than what people expect to pay for vintage clothing, but as Kotani points out, it would be "unfair and inaccurate to call Taos products vintage or recycled products. What they're creating is something completely new."
The vintage remake trend is also changing the designer brand world. The designer Michiko Suzuki, head of "Y's Red Label" brand for Yohji Yamamoto, has come out with a collection based on remaking deadstock, or never worn, bomber jackets. By taking the jacket seams apart, dissecting its parts and then reassembling them into elegant dresses and skirts, Suzuki is pushing the envelope on design and recycling. He's also caused a sensation on the runway.
"I think we'll be seeing a lot more of this trend," said Takako Yokomizo, a fashion industry analyst. "Remaking things and breathing new life into what had been unusable or uninspiring is alternative consumerism," which "matches the times."
2008年8月14日 星期四
Emmy Rossum has PiNKiTUDE
LOS ANGELES, Aug 13, 2008 / FW/ — The Pink Panther is back with his new girl, Emmy Rossum of the ‘Phantom of the Opera’ fame. MGM, owner of the Pink Panther franchise, through its Consumer Products division is launching ‘PiNKiTUDE’, a new initiative in collaboration with Susan G. Komen for the Cure®
With Emmy Rossum as the official spokesperson, MGM through its PiNKiTUDE campaign will share life saving breast healt messages with young women everywhere. As part of the campaign, a minimum of 5% of the sales of the modern fashion line targeting teen and young adult women will be donated to Susan G. Komen for the Cure(R), the global leader in the breast cancer movement.
“As a young woman whose family has personally been affected by breast cancer, I am grateful for the opportunity to help raise awareness of this disease by sharing my ‘PiNKiTUDE’ with young women everywhere,” said Emmy Rossum. “I hope to inspire women like myself to practice breast self-awareness and to encourage them to live a healthy lifestyle.”
As part of the initiative, PiNKiTUDE will kick off with a series of events, starting with an invitation-only reception hosted by Ms. Rossum and featuring celebrity deejays Spinderella (of Salt ‘n’ Pepa) and Sean Patrick this month.
Also on tap, is launch of the first PiNKiTUDE “Pop Up Store” which will open on Saturday, August 16th at 1p.m. The public is invited to this event, which will be held at Xin Boutique, 8064 Melrose Ave. in Los Angeles.
Leveraging the strength of MGM’s media assets and corporate relationships to reach consumers on-air, online, at retail, and through their favorite media, PiNKiTUDE is devised to educate young women and teens on the importance of breast self-awareness, early detection and treatment of breast cancer.
The PiNKiTUDE initiative starts now and will culminate in October, which is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month.
Lauren Conrad continues her fashion career at Style Week Orange County
LOS ANGELES, Aug 14, 2008/ FW/ — To the Irvine Spectrum Center, Lauren Conrad is a hometown girl who made it big. Born in Laguna Beach, California, Lauren Conrad, a.k.a. “L.C.” used to shop at the Irvine mall during her growing up years. On Sep 8, L.C. triumphantly returns home to present her Fall 2008 collection during the first ever Style Week Orange County.
Slated from Sep 8 –13 at the Irvine Spectrum Center, Style Week Orange County will feature six runway shows and dozens of in-store fashion events, designer appearances and a House of Style that visitors and fashionistas can tour.
Lauren Conrad jumpstarts the week with her Fall 2008 catwalk presentation, followed by H&M, Nordstrom and the iconic OC surf brands, Hurley and Roxy.
“This is a wonderful homecoming for me, and I look forward to seeing old friends - and making new ones,” said Lauren Conrad. “Because it was so close to my home, I grew up shopping at Irvine Spectrum Center and still visit the center when I’m in Orange County. I’m excited to return to my roots and participate in the first-ever Style Week Orange County.”
Located in the heart of Orange County, Irvine Spectrum Center is one of Southern California’s most popular shopping and fashion destinations. The outdoor center is home to the nation’s first pairing of Nordstrom and Target.
Die-hard Lauren Conrad fans already knows that their favorite celebrity’s collection was first unveiled last March at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios. Receiving mixed reviews from fashion editors, Conrad is still hopeful with her fashion dreams.
For more information about Style Week Orange County, please log on:n www.StyleWeekOC.com
Sel Marin by Heeley
Sel Marin by Heeley
- Created: 2008
- For: Men
- type: Woody - Aromatic
A fresh lemon note opens the scent. The heart blends seaweed and sea salt notes. The woody earthy base mixes cedar, vetiver and birch. Perfume company : APF.
2008年8月13日 星期三
Rei Kawakubo’s Olympic Gold
NEW YORK, Aug 12, 2008 / FW/ — Every time Michael Phelps steps on the podium in Beijing to receive his gold medal, Rei Kawakubo is there with him. The founder of Comme des Garçons designed the red, white and blue swimsuits for Team USA.
Sponsored by Speedo, Team USA’s uniform is based on the company’s LZR RACER suit, its original gray and black silhouette designed by the legendary Comme des Garcons. For the Beijing Olympics, Rei Kawakubo incorporated the patriotic stars and stripes of the U.S. flag and joined it with the distinctive metallic calligraphy that already appears in the suit. The calligraphy, which was painted by celebrated artist Inoue Yu-ichi, means ‘kokoro’ represent the heart, spirit and mind.
- Speedo LZR Racer Team USA Uniform
- Speedo LZR Racer Team USA Uniform
With 33 of the 36 swimming medals won by an athlete wearing Speedo’s LZR RACER so far, the suit is fast becoming a symbol of synergy between pure design (fashion), technology (NASA) and commerce (Speedo).
An iconic brand for swimsuits, Speedo, which celebrates its 80th anniversary this year, harnessed the expertise of NASA and a number of international research institutes to create the LZR Pulse, the material used for the LZR Racer.
Using the LZR Pulse™, an ultra lightweight, low drag, water repellent and fast drying fabric unique to Speedo, the LZR Racer suit is the world’s first fully bonded competition swimsuit. With Rei Kawakubo’s distinctive silhouette, American athletes are wearing one of the most sought after designers in fashion.
Jasmin Noir by Bulgari
Jasmin Noir by Bulgari
- Created: 2008
- For: Women
- type: Floral - Woody Musk
The perfume opens with a delicate note of gardenia petals, refreshed with green sap. Then sambac jasmine makes its appearance, paired with velvety accords of satin almond. Precious woods and tonka bean introduce the scent’s final notes. Designed by: Carlos Benaïm and Sophie Labbe, IFF.
2008年8月11日 星期一
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Takes Center Stage on Sep 5 – 12
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Takes Center Stage on Sep 5 – 12
NEW YORK, Aug 11, 2008 / FW/ — August might be the Beijing Olympics but September belongs to fashion. New York kicks off the Spring 2009 womenswear international fashion season on Sep 5, a season that would last until Oct 5, happen in four cities and span two continents.
Surprises on Paris Fashion Week Spring 2009 Catwalk Schedule
PARIS, Aug 10, 2008 / FW/ — With at least 10 catwalk shows daily on the official calendar alone, Paris Fashion Week, also known as Paris Prêt-a-Porter is a tightly-packed 9-day affair based on the tentative runway show schedule released by the Chambre Syndicale.
New, yet familiar names on the first day are Kris Van Assche designing under his own name is presenting his eponymous womenswear label, Peachoo Krejeberg who usually opt for a presentation has chosen the catwalk this season and Gareth Pugh, who usually shows in London but will now show in Paris because of his ANDAM win.
Below is the schedule as released by the Chambre Syndicale. This is tentative and still subject to change.
Saturday, September 27, 20081100 IMPASSE DE LA DÉFENSE Gare de Lyon1200 MARIE BISHARA To be confirmed1300 SIRIVANNAVARI NARIRATANA Hôtel Intercontinental Paris Le Grand1400 ESTRELLA ARCHS To be confirmed1500 PEACHOO KREJBERG To be confirmed1600 KRIS VAN ASSCHE 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple - Paris 11e1700 GARETH PUGH To be confirmed1800 DÉVASTÉE Showcase19002000 FATIMA LOPES To be confirmed
Sunday, September 28, 20081000 DICE KAYEK To be confirmed1100 LIE SANG BONG Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel1200 ANNE VALÉRIE HASH Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1300 CHER MICHEL KLEIN Hôtel Intercontinental Paris Le Grand1400 RAJESH PRATAP SINGH Galerie Nikki 9 place des Vosges - Paris 4e1500 BALMAIN To be confirmed1600 BRUNO PIETERS Maison des Métallos1700 MANISH ARORA To be confirmed1800 RICK OWENS Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1900 NINA RICCI Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e2000 AF VANDEVORST Parking Turenne2100 BLESS To be confirmed
Monday, September 29, 20081000 ATSURO TAYAMA Musée Galliera1100 CACHAREL Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre1200 GASPARD YURKIEVICH Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot*1300 VÉRONIQUE LEROY Le Carrousel du Louvre - en attente*1430 CHRISTIAN DIOR Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries – Paris 1er1530 ISABEL MARANT Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1630 SHARON WAUCHOB Cité de l’Architecture1730 UNDERCOVER See invitation1830 MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Le 104 - 11 bis rue Curial - Paris 19e1930 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts2030 YOHJI YAMAMOTO Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e
Tuesday, September 30, 20080930 BALENCIAGA See invitation1030 JUNYA WATANABE See invitation1130 TSUMORI CHISATO Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1230 MARITHÉ & FRANCOIS GIRBAUD Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre1330 ISSEY MIYAKE Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle DelormeVIKTOR & ROLF To be confirmedLUTZ To be confirmed1630 ANN DEMEULEMEESTER 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e1730 COMME DES GARCONS See invitation1900 JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 325 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e2000 VÉRONIQUE BRANQUINHO Parking Turenne - Paris 3e2100 LOEWE Les Folies Bergères - 32 rue Richet - Paris 9e
Wednesday, October 1, 20081000 KARL LAGERFELD Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1100 ANDREW GN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel*1200 AKRIS Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme*1300 EMANUEL UNGARO Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre*1400 COSTUME NATIONAL Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot*1500 DRIES VAN NOTEN To be confirmed1600 CHRISTIAN LACROIX Espace Ephémère Tuileries1700 BERNHARD WILLHELM To be confirmed1830 GIVENCHY Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e1930 HUSSEIN CHALAYAN To be confirmed2100 SONIA RYKIEL See invitation
Thursday, October 2, 20081000 STELLA MCCARTNEY Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e1100 LÉONARD Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme*1200 BARBARA BUI Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre*1300 GUY LAROCHE Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot*1400 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1500 ZUCCA Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1600 CELINE Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries – Paris 1er1700 HAIDER ACKERMANN 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e1830 SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI To be confirmed2000 YVES SAINT LAURENT Grand Palais - avenue Winston Churchill - Paris 8e
Friday, October 3, 20080930 REQUIEM To be confirmed1030 CHANEL Grand Palais - avenue du Général Eisenhower - Paris 8e1130 AGNÈS B. To be confirmed1230 JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC Le Carrousel du Louvre1330 ALENA AKHMADULLINA Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1430 VALENTINO Espace Ephémère Tuileries – Jardin des Tuileries – Paris 1er1530 JUNKO SHIMADA École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1630 RUE DU MAIL (by Martine Sitbon) 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e1730 JOSE CASTRO To be confirmed1830 VANESSA BRUNO Résidence de Serbie - Paris 16e2000 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Le 104 - 11 bis rue Curial - Paris 19e
Saturday, October 4, 20080930 TALBOT RUNHOF To be confirmed1030 KENZO Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e1130 ELIE SAAB Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme1230 WUNDERKIND Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot1330 PAUL & JOE Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre1430 COMMUUN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel1530 CHLOÉ Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries - Paris 1er1630 MARTIN GRANT École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1730 HERMÈS Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1830 LIMI FEU Musée de l’Homme - 17 place du Trocadéro - Paris 16e2000 JOHN GALLIANO To be confirmed
Sunday, October 5, 20081030 MOON YOUNG HEE To be confirmed1130 SHIANTZY-CHEN École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts1230 CHAPURIN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Delorme/Soufflot1330 COLLETTE DINNIGAN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel1430 LOUIS VUITTON To be confirmed1600 DRESS 33 To be confirmed1700 LANVIN Espace Eiffel - Quai Branly - Paris 7e1800 JEFEN Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Gabriel/Soufflot1900 MIU MIU See invitation
Sportive Shoes: No Longer Just a Fashion Statement
LOS ANGELES, Aug 8, 2008 / FW/ — Reebok’s got game while Crocs can walk on water with their latest offerings. Gone are the days when footwear that kids and adults wear for play are called ‘runners’ or ‘tennis’ or just plain ole ‘rubber shoes.’
And they’re no longer just fashion statements either. As sportive shoes evolved, they have become part of our pop culture. In fact, the latest edition from Reebok, the company’s MONOPOLY footwear collection is based on the famous board game.
“MONOPOLY has global recognition as one of the most iconic board games of all time, and Reebok is excited to be able to translate this fun into footwear,” said Christian Stegmaier, Reebok’s Head of Lifestyle Product Marketing.
The first models to launch in the collection pay tribute to the board itself. Launching this August is the Reverse Jam designs, which will be available for a suggested retail price range of $40 for toddler sizes and $85 for men’s sizes, while the women’s Courtee designs will be available a suggested retail price of $75-80.
A favorite among outdoor enthusiasts, Crocs is launching its latest line of amphibious shoes. Made with Croslite™, a patented material that traction, durability and quick drying properties demanded by water enthusiasts, the new line echoes Crocs’ iconic look engineered for high performance.
“This collection is about Crocs getting back to its roots, offering a casual performance line of shoes designed for recreation in and around the water,” said Adam Baker, Vice President of Merchandising for Crocs, Inc. “With the introduction of new products such as the Ace Boating and Wraith, Crocs continues to be the leader in molded footwear design and technology.”
Please visit www.crocs.com for additional information.
2008年8月8日 星期五
Where the fashionistas go for a quick fix (From Herlad Tribune)
By Ruth La Ferla
Published: August 7, 2008
After days of rafting, hooking worms for bait and shaking sand out of her skirts during a family trip to Oregon, Karen Snyder took a break. Lounging near her hotel alongside a riverbank, she flipped open her laptop and waved off the kids. "Mommy is going to take 15 minutes to look at what's going on in the world of Louis Vuitton," she told them.
Snyder, who owns an art gallery in San Francisco, may not be privy to the inner workings of the fashion world, but she is possessed with the fashion addict's need to know. She indulges that craving with a host of online fashion magazines, Web sites that cater to readers who, like Snyder, never seem to get their fill of advance intelligence on trends, shopping or designer dish.
Conceived to mimic mainstream glossies, titles like Hintmag.com, Fashion156.com and Glossmag.ca draw international readerships in the hundreds of thousands. But unlike their newsstand competitors, these publications exist exclusively online, updating weekly or even daily, and offering a sense of community that conventional monthlies cannot replicate. What they lack in tactile attraction, they make up for with a multimedia experience encompassing still photography, music, videos, blogs and message boards teeming with opinionated commentary. And if they are not about to slice into the profits of an Elle or a Vogue any time soon, the stars of the genre are luring advertisers, too.
In the current issue of Unvogue.com, a Webzine with a multiethnic following, readers can pore over pictures of athletic hipsters, natty on the tennis court in shorts and stiff-pressed blazers; they can read about novel ways to wear a vest; or "page" with a click to coverage of the antics of the tattooed late-night set.
Well-heeled fans of Luxuryculture.com, based in Paris, will encounter a multipage feature about Aurelie Bidermann, a jewelry designer whose silver-dipped lace collars and cuffs are sold at upscale stores. Fashion is part of a rarefied lineup that includes articles on the emergent art scene in Qatar and Abu Dhabi and a lavish pictorial on family safaris in Africa.
Multimedia
GraphicFashion156.com» View
GraphicHintmag.com» View
GraphicIconique.com» View
"People still like flipping a page and experiencing great photographs on paper," said Imran Amed, the publisher of The Business of Fashion, a Web news site. But a Webzine, he said, "can be much more dynamic, change its content faster, create dialogue with a bunch of people passionate about the same topic, and push the envelope in getting them to interact."
That speed of access and a clubby feeling give Webzines an edge with readers whose need to track down the latest cult jean or downtown boîte borders on compulsion. "These people are the influentials, and they have moved to the Internet," said Samir Arora, the chief executive of Glam Media, which places advertising on glam.com, its aggregate of fashion and lifestyle sites. "Their tastes are redefining the future of fashion on the Web."
The challenge for a Web magazine is to find ways of reaching them. Most online publishers are self-styled cyberfrontiersmen, struggling to differentiate their sites from the wilderness of chatty blogs, columns and newsletters, few of which have a distinct identity.
The fashion Webscape is "a very blurry world right now," said Joe Mandese, the editor of MediaPost.com, an online business publication. "Everything is kind of a mash-up." Sites and blogs, he said, are trying to incorporate the kinds of photography and video that have long been the province of print or TV. To stand out, a Webzine needs content that is memorable while sticking with a format that readers will find familiar.
"We wanted people to realize this is just like a fashion magazine," said Lee Carter, the founder and editor of Hintmag.com.
Accordingly, Hint, which has, since its debut a decade ago, transformed itself from a gossip-laden Web site into a virtual glossy, is built on content that mirrors that of Nylon or W. Highlights in the current issue include a nine-page fashion feature that shows a Siouxsie Sioux imposter vamping moodily in a clothing and accessories by Martin Grant, Viktor & Rolf and others.
In a magazine-length interview, the graphic designer and branding guru Fabien Baron filled readers in on the "unspoken seduction that goes on in meeting Madonna for the first time." A lightly macabre animated feature titled "Drawing Blood" showcases designs by Balenciaga and Comme des Garçons, set to the music of Munk and Annie.
Hint and other Webzines take their merchandising cues from print magazines, identifying the wares they feature with on-screen brand and store credits or links. A few have made shopping their primary focus. Net-a-Porter Notes (net-a-porter.com), a weekly catalogue dressed up as a magazine, a kind of upscale Lucky, posts trend stories, including one in its July 30 issue that talks up new colors for fall. Readers can buy the berry-tone Phillip Lim dress on its pages by clicking directly on it.
The site Iconique.com shows off the work of new illustrators, stylists, photographers and a handful of fledgling designers. So does the London-based Fashion156.com, plucking new faces from design school obscurity. "The whole thrust of our magazine is to provide a platform for emerging talent," said Guy Hipwell, the editor and founder.
In contrast to traditional magazines, which decide their content months before going to press, a Webzine can update almost instantly, Hipwell pointed out. "I can literally go to a graduate design show and get the work up on screen the next day."
His 2-year-old site, published every 12 days and reaching an audience of about 250,000, was created for an estimated $40,000. Hipwell would not disclose his cost per issue, but acknowledged that he publishes on a shoestring, offering contributors nominal fees or prominent credits and Web links in exchange for work. He operates, of course, without the daunting overhead of real estate, printing and distribution costs.
Though sites like his are proliferating, they often vanish within weeks, which makes the number of online fashion magazines difficult to track. Some struggle for revenues, but a few are drawing blue chip advertisers, including Neiman Marcus, Tiffany and Lancôme. Advertisers can pay $10,000 to $50,000 to promote their products on a Webzine.
Some provide links to their Web sites; others a top-of-page banner or a "skin," which takes over the white background of a Web page. Some provide a full-color interactive page masquerading as a fashion feature. In a recent edition of Net-a-Porter Notes, Aquascutum took the imaginative leap of inviting the viewers of its page to peek behind the scenes of its ad shoot by clicking to a video.
As Mandese and his peers point out, advertisers migrate to the Web because it can be cheaper and more cost effective. Gucci is paying $50,000 to be the exclusive sponsor of a three-month fall campaign on Hintmag.com. A single color page in a leading fashion glossy can cost $60,000 to $110,000.
Results of online advertising are also more readily measured. Sales and traffic can be tracked by reader click-throughs to marketers' Web sites.
Advertising is often placed on a group of sites through increasingly powerful and competitive "vertical" networks like AdBrite, Adcision and Glam Media, a behemoth that operates more than 600 sites and has 77 million unique worldwide visitors a month, according to comScore Media Metrix.
"Arguably the networks represent the threat to print from online," said Barry Parr, a media analyst with Forrester Research. But he added that for an advertiser, "there is nothing you can do on the Web that can substitute for the impact of an eight-page insert in the September Vogue."
Others counter that Webzines are even now siphoning revenues from their print-world cousins. "The preponderance of ad spending is still in the traditional media," Mandese said. But, he said, as marketers reach for Web audiences, which are widely perceived as hipper and more influential than those for print, "we are going to see a rationalization to shift money online just because it looks good."
Many traditional magazines have struggled to find an online audience, often because their content so closely mimics the print and because they aim for the mainstream.
"Readers' interests have becoming increasingly and deeply fragmented," Arora said. To cater to those interests, Webzines are poaching print-world editors respected for their expertise in subjects that vary from models to designer mules.
"In the future there won't be one all-powerful fashion editor — there will be many," Arora said. "We are looking for the 20 new Anna Wintours."
New Fragrance Women 2008
New fragrances Women 1423 results found
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
...
143
FANCY
by: Jessica Simpson
For: Women
type: Floral - Fruity
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The fragrance opens with sparkling notes of pear, apricot nectar and red fruits. The heart unveils dewy gardenia laced with night blooming jasmine and toasted almonds. The base melts creamy sanda... Read On
Jeanne LANVIN
by: Lanvin
For: Women
type: Floral - Fruity
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
Anne Flipo wanted a brief formula centered on musk, an ingredient that’s ‘both light-hearted and romantic’, (editor’s note: white musks). The result is a light, fruity-floral fragrance pairing no... Read On
Dark Amber & Ginger Lily
by: jo Malone
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The scent opens with spicy notes of cardamom and ginger. The floral heart blends orchid, night blooming jasmine and lily. The base melts incense, amber and warm woods. It can be worn alone or com... Read On
MY LIFE / Hommage à Marlene Dietrich
by: Grès
For: Women
type: Chypre - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
The fragrance opens with orange blossom, wisteria and pink grapefruit. The fragrance is given a special kick by a warm note of rum that blends with Sambac jasmine and heliotrope. The base note mi... Read On
Tootsie Roll
by: Demeter Fragrance Library
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated: Be the first to rate this fragrance!
A gourmand combination of fudge, caramel, chocolate and vanilla. For women or men. Read On
Covet Pure Bloom
by: Sarah jessica parker
For: Women
type: Floral - Jasmine
Created: 2008
Rated:
Lush, feminine, floral, Covet Pure Bloom opens with purple plum, mandarin and coconut water. The floral heart mixes tuberose, royal indonesian pikake and jasmine. The sensuous base glows in a mix... Read On
Oriental Flower
by: Esteban
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated:
A floral-oriental-woodsy scent with a vibrant opening of aldehydes and mandarin orange. The orange blossom-and-tuberose heart is softened with lavender. Vanilla and cedar wood bring the fragrance... Read On
MONTANA EN TURQUOISE
by: Montana
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated:
Highlighted with fresh sea-breeze notes, bergamot opens the scent. The floral, sun-drenched heart reveals lily, ylang-ylang and orchid. The warm, summer-vacation dry down blends white musks, vani... Read On
Deseo Forever
by: Jennifer Lopez
For: Women
type: Floral - Fruity
Created: 2008
US only
Rated:
The sheer, fruity floral scent opens with sparkling notes of apple and bergamot. The floral heart blends orange blossom, rose, magnolia and French mimosa. The mineral base melts amber, sensuous w... Read On
Fleur de Corail
by: Lolita Lempicka
For: Women
type: Oriental - Floral
Created: 2008
Rated:
A harmony of citrus heralds the arrival of frangipani blossom, warmed up with vanilla orchid, bursts of amber, musks and floating woods. Designed by: Maurice Roucel and Alexandre Carlin, Symrise Read On
